Discussion in 'General Chat' started by RyanV, May 21, 2014.
Just more reasons why ontario sux and BC ( and icbc ) is awesome.
Got rid of the subaru shifter wiggle.
If you have a manual, you probably know what I mean.
Bought the linkage from the stealership, part 35047AC030.
Put in some new bushings while I was in there.
Not something I've done today, but I've noticed that my Accent seems to be running a little more rough than I remember....still fine, just not quite as smooth as I recall. Might swap out the spark plugs because I have no idea when the last time they were changed was.....anybody have any recommendations?
At 89500km too....have to get the dreaded timing belt changed in another 6K or so according to factory suggestions! No idea how much that will cost on an Accent, but I know it can't be too cheap! :S
Spark plugs: just stick with Japanese: NGK or Denso. You can check their sites for application or Rockauto.com. Don't buy cheapest, Iridium just maybe $5 more expensive but will last for another 100K.
I actually just finished timing belt job on my Prado, got all OEM parts, changed all rollers, tensioners, water pump, thermostat, crankshaft seal, all gaskets, belts. Also changed valve cover gaskets as well as spark plugs and spark wires.
Invested a little more than $100 into tools (pulley holder, seal puller, pulley puller), but I think this kind of job will cost at least $1500 in the shop just for labor. Did it first time, but with help of Internet, service manual, etc I had all torques, everything went smooth.
My Prado at 95Kkm, but I thought it is good to change 16 years old timing belt while it nice and warm. Apparently belt was in pretty good shape, probably lasted another 20Kkm, but now I'm good for next 150Kkm
Wash, dry, claybar, wax....Big vehicle so it took all day! Needed to be done though. I haven't done a wax since last summer and last wash was early April. It's seen lost of dirt, dust and bugs since then. After this project I'm on i'm going to have to get the engine bay shampoo'd as well as it's looking pretty filthy.
Paint is starting to go funny on the hood Maybe I should switch and go with top mount intercooler...
Looking very nice! What's the paint doing on the hood? Is that just in the clearcoat?
I guess so....I don't know enough about paint issues to really say. I think the bluish colour of these trucks commonly have clear coat issues on the hood.
Pics taken with better camera this morning:
That's a nice color, good job on the wax & polish! Trucks of this vintage that sat in the sun often have clearcoat peeling on the roof and hood, I've seen it with Land Cruisers and Surfs.
I've got similar purple tint on my truck, and hate it. High on my list of things to get re-done this summer as the rear hatch window is peeling, and where I've removed decals the tint is MUCH darker so it looks like they're still there from inside the truck.
Thanks Ian! Yup, my truck has no protection. It's outside year 'round.
I only removed one decal that made it super obvious the tint was different. Generally, I actually don't mind the colour, but the tint is so old I'm getting splits in the tint. Unlike you, this is very low on my priority list. I highly doubt I'll get to it this summer. I did watch a number of how to's on youtube though because I thought about removing the bubbled tint from the E55T when I had it, so I have an idea of what I would do if I tried to remove it. Fingers crossed it doesn't come off in dime sized pieces when I do go to remove it (although I'm sure that's exactly how it's going to go).
Changed the oil in the Aristo tonight. I think she's ready to drive now
The wife has a steam wand for "ironing" clothes that I'm going to use to remove the tint, hoping it comes off cleanly this way, especially the rear hatch as you can't use a razorblade around the defrost wires.
From what I read/saw it seems like the best thing is to spray the tint with Windex (or anything ammonia based) then cover it with black plastic and let it bake in the sun. The ammonia helps to remove the glue with the tint.
Replaced some fluids - did my 'spring' checkup on the car.
Adjusted my clutch, because it was CRAZY far out... used as reference: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/drivetr...ent-2.html?s=55aacd8fb61fa2de4f1a8c7a4b3f1d81
Finally got my car tinted
Also put some hawk HPS pads on the front and cleaned up the pistons and re-lubed everything since I ordered the wrong rotor size.
Nothing .. Amp still poo, cant wait to hear the bass drop..
What kind of truck was that flowerpot originally?
Rear calipers, pads and rotors on the rear for the Land Cruiser. Flushed out the brake fluid too. It looked pretty bad, so it's a good thing I did it.
The spacer isn't on in the pic, but I had to put that back on as well. Took quite a while to do everything. It took me a bit to figure out the adjustment for the ebrake. I really should have known though because it's the same on the Aristo and I've done the rear brakes on the Aristo before.
I installed a small powered sub under the drivers seat in my Juke today. Cleans up the sound better than I expected.
I sold my E34 525i the other day and test drove a few cars today...was also thinking of trading in my mini (2013 Countryman All4 JCW). I really liked the A4 S-Line....AND I'm looking forward to picking up the car I'm buying from Ben also - the JDM accord! Will be mainly a winter car and commuter. Looking forward to it! I will probably add some stereo upgrades to the accord also. I wish I had taken out my sub and amp before I sold my 525i...oh well!
Finally replaced the front right window regulator in the Aristo yesterday. I had to do a bit more dismantling than I thought, but I was happy that a regulator from a '96 GS300 fit. I was a bit concerned that the electrical connecot might be different as some connections seem to be different from Series 1 to Series 2, but it was a plug and play
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