Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by tperkins, Feb 11, 2015.
Wow, great job! Can you go over the process you used and products to get those results? I'd love to do the same with my Land Cruiser before snow flies again.
First step for me was to drop it off with my buddy who has a lift / was willing to spare the time.
The process was:
Remove everything that was in the way, hit it with a wire wheel (just for paint adhesion and to knock off some of that surface rust on the spare tire well), degreaser, light scuff where the wire wheel didn't fit, degreaser again then straight to Rust Bullet
If you check my truck thread I re-did the frame and it is holding up pretty well. The steps there were as follows:
Strip rust / old paint to metal with a flappy wheel, degreaser, metal prep (which etches the metal for better adhesion and leaves a zinc phosphate coating), then por15 rust preventative coating , and I wish I had followed it with the top coat (because it is a harder shell, and the por15 has taken some abuse with rocks and I will have to scuff it then apply the top coat sometime this summer).
About the POR15, I think rust bullet is better quality and I would recommend using that after having had used the rust bullet.
It is a big job.
After looking at that photo, I kind of hate you. No ones undercarriage should be that clean.
I am sure it won't last in that clean of state, + no one will see it, but it helps me sleep at night.
Thursday most of the rest of the work was done. The exhaust work was completed, which entailed removing a section of exhaust that was the factory flange size, then 2 3/4 pipe into a 3' resonator (weld filling the gap), and out of the resonator at 3". The resonator was pretty tired, upon removal the insides seemed to have collapsed partially. So now it should bolt up to my downpipe no problem.
Picked up the car yesterday, very happy with everything. We had to bleed the glorious AYC with the help of a friend with a tactrix cable, then went for a drive.
Impressions: I have always thought the exhaust sounded unique, and I wanted to maintain that. Removing the resonator made it better, it sounds the same.. but just louder. AYC functioning fully and magnificently.
The engine mount is amazing. If you have an evo, do the front lower engine mount. Shifting at higher RPM is now a dream. A drawback is that the engine really shakes the dash and wheel and pedals now, but I just feel more connected to the car because of it.
I took a short exhaust clip that I will post when it uploads.
Two minor things today.
Finally sorted the interior lighting enough that I am happy with it. I still can't get LEDs to work in the climate control. My best guess without a meter is that when it dims the voltage drops below the threshold at which the LEDs work. I think it looks good now.
Also, something I had been considering doing, and decided to commit after comparing pictures of @lenglish is the translucent red overlay for the tail lights:
I like it, plus it is very easy to backpedal on.
Some other pictures from the garage weathering the hail storm while I had my camera out.
Hmm nice fogs.
They look acceptable in that picture, but IRL they look pretty blue and make the headlights look dull. I actually have some yellow bulbs in parts mountain.
The fogs do look pretty blue in contrast to the headlights, I like 4300K for my HID's, gives the most useable light, and appears bright white with very little blue tinge. That's probably what your headlights are judging from the pics.
The fog lights are like 8000k HIDs. The headlights are just halogens, not sure of the brand but likely 4300K like you're saying. They are the ones that are blue bulbs.
If they are blue bulbs in the headlights, they are likely 5000K. Looking at the pics again, that's probably what they are. The fogs in comparison make them look whiter than they really are, lol. Here's a chart that kind of shows what each "color" bulb looks like. I think most OEM HID's are actually 5000K, despite what the chart says.
Did half of a small thing this afternoon and wrapped the downpipe + test pipe.
why yes, that is a COP plate.
That's about as well as I can do that. Doing the test pipe was probably useless but whatever, I had a bunch left and it was a chunk I was trying to use for a different piece but it was about 6" short. Letting it dry now and will high temp silly cone tomorrow. For longevity, I don't know what to expect.. in the long run a ceramic coating would have been better but whatever!
Well no silly cone, the wrap still felt a little damp so I didn't spray it yet. Instead I met up with @mekazilla , grabbed a COP plate, and started on that.
Also made this slick box:
Also picked up some paint pens today, which came in handy.
Well, let's try and stretch a COP thing out over 3 days Pretty much done, it runs, just waiting for RTV Sealant to dry and put it on for reals. I also sprayed the wrap.
Well there we go, done deal. Took it for a drive, didn't really notice a huge difference or anything that I can definitively say has improved... it seems like it idles a little smoother. That being said, it pulled hard and smooth before the COP so it is hard to say anything. I am sure it will be good to have when the boost gets turned up during tuning.
One of the next jobs will be cleaning up the engine bay, clean up some wiring. Here is is before I put the cover back on.
That's awesome you can still get the cover over your COP setup, very tidy.
Haven't made much progress lately, mostly I have been driving the car and/or procrastinating. Tonight @lenglish and I went on a proper man date and watched the 15th anniversary showing of The Fast and the Furious. He had a proper camera and even put his life on the line dangling over a ledge, maybe he will post some shots later.. or I will steal them from his flickr.
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