Mitsubishi tperkins’ 1995 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo III

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by tperkins, Oct 3, 2019.

  1. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    I have never owned such a dirty headliner personally, it was a real pain to remove but removal was mainly to get at the roof skin. Mitsubishi used an adhesive on the roof of these cars that collects moisture and rusts. The actual adhesive seems to rust, it comes out in rusty chunks, sitting there it rusts away and then rusts your roof and then it makes its way outside and uglies your paint. The car, as clean as it is underneath was not safe from this. Honestly, in the future the car will get a carbon fibre roof skin, should have just ordered it at this point, looking forward to having to re-do this job in the future to change the roof skin.

    At this point the whole interior is removed, seats, roll cage, most of the carpet is removed (I will probably just take the whole thing out to clean it), and roof liner. Whoever installed the roll cage wasn't a fan of tape measures, on one side you have access to everything, on the other side everything is very tight to the roof liner and the pillars. Could have moved 1/4" to 3/8" the passenger side and split the difference.

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    Peak Little Green Machine achieved, I am amazed this car doesn't stink like must and cigarettes, honestly pre-cleaning it didn't smell bad at all.

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  2. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Looks like that little cleaner works pretty good. Is it the Bissell brand or something else? I've thought about getting it before, but I was skeptical on how well it would work. Looks like you've got some good results! :)
     
  3. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    It is a Bissel Little Green Machine, it works alright. The water it extracts, on the seat for example, came out looking like chew spit. I have the old version, upon a quick google search, where I just use water as hot as the sink will produce for the cleaner. New one looks like it heats the water up for you!

    I should say your results may vary, whatever stained the roof liner, likely just smog and crap as I don't know if the car was ever smoked in (sure doesn't smell like it) is like the perfect solubility and the fabric itself treats very well. Some other things I have done still get okay results, but not that dramatic looking. Also pretty time consuming, the passenger seat took two hours. The headliner took a little over two hours.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2020
  4. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    In today's episode of wet vacuuming:

    Rear seats were nasty. Previous owner's idea of removing a wing and sealing the holes included tape..more on this later. This tape method let some moisture inside which drained frontwards and just sat in that seat, staining it with moisture coming out of the yellow foam moving outwards, wrecking the stitching. AGAIN, I really don't know why this car didn't smell like a trash compactor.


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    The stain surprisingly came out pretty well. As the car never had any tint, the seats are pretty faded. The top corners are beat up to fit the roll cage. I know of a local company that might fix the stitching for me, I am trying to get in contact with them to see if they can remove the seat cover, stitch it back together, and re-install the seat cover.

    There are about 50-60 little metal C clips that go around the wire frame. I removed a few just to see how it would be with two needle nose pliers, so I think I would be capable of improving the overall look of the seat lol. Will it be 100% perfect? Maybe 80-90%, and the seat is currently at like 30%, so I feel I won't wreck anything even if it doesn't work. Doesn't seem like rocket science, and worst case scenario is no different than now where I need to start looking for a new seat.
     
  5. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    This may be the last instalment of wet vac channel as mostly everything in the car is done. Can no longer distract myself with side projects that are nice to get done but really aren't that imperative and have to do actual work work.
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    Found this, fuel receipt?
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    Why yes, I stitched those pants myself without taking them off.


    Also check out this masterpiece of a short shifter.
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  6. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Well, some less than glamorous jobs.

    Got to tackling roof. Again, adhesive holds moisture and heaps of these cars have rusty roof.

    Step one, wire brush adhesive off
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    Step two, sand down rust
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    I broke the roof into 1/3's and went to town on all 5 bars.
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    Rust converter (2-3 coats.. supposedly leaves neutral inert surface prepped for paint)
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    POR15
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    Bought a tarp to try and contain the mess. Also had the windows open and a shop vac as a makeshift air intake.
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    I bought this little 3m sanding kit.. in hindsight could have used three of them, broke two of them.
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    In hindsight, kind of a waste of time. Should have just ordered the carbon roof and installed it.. I was just hoping to buy a few years before having to do that. Going to clean the roof, prime it, then black vinyl it. All the while, order the carbon roof as there is no guarantee that production is going to last forever. I am worried to remove the factory glass without damaging it, so that was the theory behind repairing it as well as I could.


    Then started tackling the rear seat, which looked like this.

    Again, water in trunk holes, leaked frontwards and soaked into that seat.. yellow stain is the foam, moisture deteriorated the stitching.
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    Had to brush up on my sewing machine skills.
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    In progress.
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    What a pain, there was about 60 hog clips that I straightened out with needle nose pliers... putting it back together should be the trick. Amazon Prime is quoting 1 month to get Hog Ring Pliers. Oh well, use some linesmen pliers and send it. Again, kind of hard to make the seat worse but I am happy with how it is looking so far.
     
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  7. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Let's start with reminder of how just hanging on by a thread the rear bumper was when I picked it up:
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    As it turns out, the only thing actually holding the bumper on was two bolts in the fenders, and 2 screws from either flare.

    From factory, the car was supposed to have 3 plastic tabs that bolted the bumper skin to the crash bar. Two were broken clear off, and the third one was broken with a missing fastener. Additionally, there were supposed to be two bolts in either corner from the trunk holding the rear bumper skin (also missing). Further, two nuts were missing on the crash support bar. More to that point, the plastic fender liners that hold the bumper are also completely missing on the left hand, and missing all the fasteners on the right hand, and whatever brackets are supposed to hold the bottom corners? you guess it, also missing. There, I got to use all the sentence continuations in my repertoire.

    Luckily, maybe even for when the other tabs break, Mitsubishi included two unused tabs from the factor. Using welder on 2/10 (which was lower then lowest recommended setting for the wire size) I was able to weld some tabs that I made with nutserts to the crash bar to utilize those unused tabs. I also re-created the plastic tabs that had broken off out of leftover plastiflex from the mudflaps and plastiweld epoxied them on.. this was an additional measure but I think either method would have been sufficient.

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    The thickness of this metal is representative of the patience I have for the P.O at this point.
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    Those two little pegs for the screws at the bottom I also plastiwelded them back on. Cleaned the area with acetone, scuffed it with 80 grit sandpaper, then cleaned again. Maybe it will work, maybe no, at this point again felt like I couldn't make it worse to try lol. So far I can grab onto them and flex the bumper without busting them off, so that seems promising. With the added security at the top of the bumper skin it should remove a lot of flexing from those little jaspers.
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    Fits decent now,

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    That little dip in the corner, with some heat and massaging I got it to match the other side. Also, the flaking paint is exposing factory paint underneath. This is the correct Mitsubishi bumper originally painted the matching colour (verified via part numbers on the rear of the skin), but I think at some point that (LH rear) corner must have got slightly bumped and cracked all the fasteners. There is no stress evident in the rear plastic of the bumper, and I tried to hide the gap as much as I could, then looking from the side it tells a different story.. like it is supposed to be there.
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    Alternatively, this car used to have some sort of rear diffuser.

    Evidence: tow hook crudely removed, two through bolts through spare tire floor, foam tape on bumper.

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    So, perhaps the stress that diffusor was putting on the bumper skin upwards was what broke the tabs.
    Bonus underskirt:
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    Pretty for a 25 year old car (Feb 2 1995 build, so we missed celebrating its birthday).

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    Paint gun for ceramic coating also arrived.. that will be a learning experience.

    Oh, and learned a little trick for POR15. I think its no secret I have used it heaps in the past, this time doing the roof, and roll bar mounts and stuff it was taking 24+ hours to dry between coats. So, I was like wow, must have prepped wrong.. maybe my stirring and shaking wasn't sufficient, maybe there is something wrong with this batch (can says 2-6 hours.. last time I painted in this shop it was closer to 8-9 hours).. went to forums. Dudes in dry climates were saying that is standard, needs humidity to dry. So, I took a bucket, filled it with water, took some sponges soaked them with water, and put that all in front of a fan blowing towards the fresh paint... great success. Probably down to 6 hours between coats. I also have been taking the hose and wetting the whole floor after coats.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2020
  8. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Painted things
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    Finished the stitching, the bottom left corner bit that goes under the seat had shrunk. Sometime today after work I will put it on the foam and see how it looks. Took a long time to put the bottom plastic thing that actually attaches the hog clips because I had to hand stitch it, thick plastic wit holes already made.
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  9. David Smith

    David Smith New Member

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    its going to be brand new by the time you're done with it - but then we're never really 'done' are we :)
     
  10. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Lol yeah, hopefully make it a little more presentable and inline with my likings.

    So far I have been pretty good at finishing a car then being basically done with messing with it, just enjoy it.. but I am bad at the buying another one to work on part.
     
  11. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Done! Ish, and only 8-9 hours later ::) I think it turned out well, but there is one little thing I would like to touch up. I also broke 4 hog-ring clips, two on removal and two on installations so I guess I have to sort something out there.
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    Bumper support painted, put in place. POR15 and POR15 chassis black top coat.
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    Then started tackling the shifter.. which should be a lot of fun.

    Upon removal, quite a bit of play in both bushings. The top lever that does front to back movement was not bad, I was able to drill a washer to shim the whole thing and reduce 70% of the play.

    The bottom was a mess lol

    https://flic.kr/p/2iNfpKJ <--- click to see video

    Talked to machinist bro, he is probably going to machine me some stainless steel sleeves at some point, but I am actually pretty proud of this little trick:

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    Yes, wrapped the sleeve with a red bull can to shim it, then installed the teflon spacers that are from factory over that.


    https://flic.kr/p/2iNaXwa <---- click to see after video

    It took out a lot of slop, and since that is a side to side mechanism, tidied that up as well. I shimmed it to the point of no play front to rear and the little return spring wasn't able to do its job, so I dialed it back from there. I feel like it needs some amount of play.

    Next, remove some of that height / length and clean up all the welds.. paint it, reinstall.
     
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  12. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    After sorting out the play in the shifter, got it chopped up, scaled back, re-welded, and painted.

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    I ended up removing about 3/4" on both the shift linkages, but kept the height in the pedestal and shifter handle. I cut it out, tacked it, installed it to see if I needed to remove more, and it ended up pretty much perfect.

    Throw from 1st to 2nd before was 2 1/4", it is now 3 1/4" which is right where I wanted it. Stock is 4"
     
  13. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Working full time on this car right now?

    Daily updates, nice work! :)
     
  14. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Not really, I wish though. I am still working full time from home, so work on the car from 5 until 8-9 ish most days.
     
  15. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    I haven't spent any time under the hood of this little nugget yet, and an evo 3 bro was asking me about the fuel filter locations. So I was out taking a picture of the fuel filter for him and noticed this:

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    Funny, because I almost made the "you call that a knife? This is a knife." Joke about the shifter linkage looking like a shitty knife.
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    This car is the gift that just keeps giving.
     
  16. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Assembled the shifter yesterday. Looks good, I actually found the bushings it needs and ordered them.
    Reminder
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    Fin'
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    Then I painted the seat. I used Duplicolour Vinyl and Fabric spray. I was concerned with it coming off on clothes, etc. But, read reviews, talked to a friend who used it and it doesn't seem to be an issue. Further: 1.) Black and stains is better than blue 2.) It is the passenger seat and therefore not my issue. #lonelydriversclub

    I also put myself in harms way
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    This probably took the longest. At least an 45 minutes to an hour.
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    Seat back before (note, BI_DE is basically all that is left of the stitching before starting this, I didn't accidentally paint over it)
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    After
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    Before
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    After
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    Impressions: It sure doesn't seem like it wants to come off. I wiped everything down with a white rag, nothing. Then I went over it with a lint roller, some black came off but seems like little bits of black fabric came off, not only paint.



    Also, parts arrival day!

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    When I pulled it into the shop I could smell some faint coolant. Looked, sure enough coolant on top of the rad. Upon further investigation I found that it was the upper rad hose leaking, but at that point I found a bunch of damage on the radiator from when it fell out on the highway on the way home (whoever changed the alternator didn't put the rad posts back into their bushings, so it was just having a party, held in with the skid plate). So, thought ahh whatever if I can find a decent price on a rad then I will order one. This rad is doomed one day and it would be unfortunate to happen on the highway or something. Wow was a rad a pain to find, OE from Japan was 1200$, a lot of aftermarket Koyo on RHDJapan, but cheapest was 700$, most expensive was 1400$.. This one I was very lucky to find for 4xx$, last one in stock, B.I.N and be consumed with guilt of making some poor person have to deliver it.


    Other stuff; wideband, boost gauge, oil pressure and temperature gauge, stuff to finish exhaust, spark plugs, the vinyl paint, coolant, seam sealer.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. David Smith

    David Smith New Member

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    Seat looks awesome! I'll have to use that trick. Do you order most of your parts from RHD? Ever buy from yahoo japan? I've ordered almost everything from yahoo japan and a couple of things from Ratuken.
     
  18. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    I actually haven't ordered much from them, just some cusco braces. Everything else for OE replacements Amayama/Partsouq, for aftermarket stuff like the rad my friend was able to source it through one of his supplies etc. I typically just order from wherever I can find something the cheapest.



    I don't know who needs to hear this, but tape is not a suitable way to fill holes in a trunk following removing a wing.

    Didn't accomplish a whole lot of satisfying jobs yesterday. Dealing with some rust in the trunk, turns out tape over holes + 20+ ish years doesn't prevent water from collecting in the spare tire well.


    I did fix the top half of the rear seat yesterday though.. that took a while. Definitely a lot faster the second time around.
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  19. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    New kit showed up

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  20. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Just when you thought you'd seen the end of the seat pictures..
    Bought more paint, I was impressed how well it worked on the Bride.
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    Also, I am not a smart man. First two attempts at these brackets, tried to just mark the holes and use a square, that was a failure. Then I tried paper, that was almost worse. Eventually I just overlaid the failed brackets to mark the holes, then used that as a template.

    I knocked all that rust looking stuff off with a flappy disc, seems like the wing was epoxied onto whichever car it was on last, and that epoxy took part of the old trunk with it.

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    While waiting for the paint on that to dry, moved on to the suspension. Even with the botched rear pull the tires rub on a big enough bump.. trying to raise the suspension 1" so it is a functional low instead of just low low, but the rear locking rings for the suspension wouldn't budge. Decided to make the ATF Acetone cocktail, will report back how it works. Also send thoughts and prayers that the coils are not already set to their highest possible setting.
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