The Beast: E39 M5

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by RyanV, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Sounds like it would be a lot of work just to get a 15+ year old nav system working, unless keeping it OEM is really important to you, I'd skip it and move on. Aftermarket decks provide far better connectivity and features anyways.
     
  2. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Replaced the oil filter housing mounts. Apparently, very common for these to fail. One had sheared in half.

    [​IMG]

    I also started taking apart the interior today to work on the stereo.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2020
  3. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I had some time to start back on this yesterday...The good news is I think the wiring shouldn't be too bad to sort out to get the factory head unit to control the radio again. It looks like I found the location where they spliced in and pulled the wiring to the front. The bad news is that the previous owner totally messed up the threads on the body for the driver's seat bolts. Three of the four mounting points will need work. This isn't accessible from below either, so I guess I'll start by purchasing a tap and die set and hopefully that can fix the threads. After that I guess I'm looking at a Helicoil type fix.
     
  4. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Oh man, seat bolts are kind of important! Hopefully there's enough meat left you can clean them up with a tap and some new bolts?
     
  5. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    More investigation and wiring work and I think I'm well on my way to getting the radio and speaker stuff sorted. Removed the extra wires that were spliced into the harness leading to the radio receiver.

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    I clipped off all the aftermarket wires that were connected to the factory setup and unplugged the harnesses from the amp. Wires clipped off.

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    When I removed the harnesses I found the one that all of the wires need to be reconnected to.

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    I spliced into this, but it was a pain since I used connectors rather than soldering. I don't have soldering skills good enough and since it was clipped off so short I'm sure it would be a pain to do as well. No photos of it connected, but it's not pretty. I won't get it tested until sometime in the new year and I still have to look at the antenna cable as well.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2020
  6. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Hmm...I'll have to fix the photos later...Actually...it looks like all of the photos from this thread aren't working. I have no idea what's happening with that.
     
  7. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I think I fixed the photos. I somehow changed a permission setting.
     
  8. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    I can only see the first one?
     
  9. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Really? If I look not logged in (or logged in), the only ones that don't show up are the last two in Post #25. Or do you mean you can only see the first photo in Post #25?
     
  10. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Yeah, on post 25 I can just see the connector picture haha. Top one.
     
  11. pitty

    pitty likes the tuna here

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    You can't (reliably) hotlink Google Photos content via the src url. Those urls are dynamic. The urls in the album archive are still static, but who knows for how long, this being Google...
     
  12. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    I can see 4 pics on this page...seems like they are all working for me.
     
  13. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I finally had some time to reconnect everything and I'm extremely happy that it's all working! :D Only odd thing was that the OBC didn't have any display the first few times I put the ignition in the ACC or ON position. I even tried a second display I have and it was the same issue. I'm not sure if it was a connection issue or something related to the battery being disconnected and it needs some time to do something?

    Anyway, stereo all working, now I need to reassemble everything, re-wrap wiring and re-route the OBC cabling back up to the dash which means I will need to pull out the center console and carpet which I've already started. After that, I'll be on to getting the driver's seat fixed.
     
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  14. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Pulled the stereo/OBC harnesses back up to the front and removed the aftermarket wiring last night. I had to remove the center console to lift the carpet enough to route the wires back in place. What a PITA it was to remove the console. There must be about 12 screws holding the thing in place and they aren't all the same either...phillips, torx, 7mm hex, and of course many of them are concealed, so you have to pry stuff out and wonder if you are going to break it on the process. Any "how to's" I could find were for the North American models, and the console is a bit different, so the screw locations are mostly different except around the e-brake. Anyway, I got it removed and reinstalled with no left over screws!

    After some tidy up on the rest of the wiring in the trunk, I'll move onto the driver's seat repair. I bought a tap and die set on sale at Canadian Tire as well as a ratcheting handle that were all on sale. I'm hoping I can fix the threads with the tap. If not, I guess I'll be purchasing a "Time-sert" insert set as a repair. I don't think Helicoil will be strong enough if I have to go that route.
     
  15. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I got all the connections back together on the driver's seat, plus all the trim pieces for the seat, plopped it in, hooked it up and everything is working as it should! Great news for me, but I'm not sure why someone would have had it all apart before? Two guesses, I have is that something went wrong with a prior seat, and someone just bought a replacement and dumped it in without bothering to do it properly (which would line up with the botched job stripping all the mounting points), or there is a parasitic battery drain traced back to the driver's seat and they just started unplugging components on it until it stopped. I guess I'll find out pretty quick if it's causing a drain pretty quick. I also chased the threads with a tap and it seems to have worked ok. I only have one good bolt right now, so I'll buy all new ones.

    Before I bolt the seat back in place, I'm going to pull the seat back out and give the carpet a clean. It's not stained or anything, but it's a good time to give it a good clean before the seat gets mounted again. I also put everything back in place in the dash and tested the OBC again before buttoning everything back up, and it's still working, so that's good as well!
     
  16. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Front seat is back in, back seats are back in, and the trunk is put back together, but I'll have to order fasteners. For some reason none of them were in place.

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    New vs old cabin air filter. I don't know how the old filters were flowing any air at all!

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    Next steps are to keep removing the aftermarket wiring from the dash and then reassemble. Then finish cleaning the interior and move on to the exterior. It's covered in saw dust from the work I did modifying the shelving in my garage and building a work bench.
     
  17. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Happy that she started up without issue after sitting for so long. Pulled out of the garage to get a wash and then it will go back in to get a clay bar and polish. It's super dusty from building a work bench while it was in the garage. While it's been out I've been doing some extra cleaning around the garage as well.

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    I had a few minutes to pull out some more aftermarket wiring from the dash as well today. Getting close to being able to put the interior back together now.
     
  18. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I've been working on getting the car all cleaned up on the exterior. I washed, dried and then put it back in the garage. Looks good once washed right?

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    Nope. One of those situations where it looks good from far, but far from good. While I was going over it with clay bar you could see how bad the paint actually was. There are also A LOT of stone chips in the hood that I didn't really notice before. So what I'm working on now is a three stage paint correction using a random orbital polisher. I tried to take photos showing the condition of the paint, but it's difficult to get just the right angle. Anyway, here are some photos before:

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    As you can see, lots of scratches in all sorts of directions.

    Here's after the first stage:

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    I didn't tape it off, but here's a photo where I had completed the first stage (bottom left of the photo) and where no polishing has been done (top part of the photo):

    [​IMG]

    Pretty dramatic difference after the first stage was completed. This is where the biggest difference can be seen. The other two stages make a difference, but it's the usual result where doing the first 90% is easy and getting that last 10% is more work than the first 90%.

    Here's a photo with all three stages done:

    [​IMG]

    You can still see some deeper scratches. I don't have any more aggressive product or pads right now, so this is as good as it's going to get. It may even need a rotary machine rather than the random orbital to get the deeper scratches that are left. The car should look really good when I'm done, but it's going to take a while. I only have about 2 hours of "free time" at night and I have other things to get done as well. I spent almost two hours on the hood last night, but it was also one of the areas where the paint looked the worst. The roof will take a while as well. As I tackle each section the process is:
    1. Orange pad with heavy cut product
    2. White pad with scratch and swirl remover
    3. Black pad with polish
    After this, I'll still have to go over with a wax as well. Lots of work, but it should be worth it when it's all done! :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2020
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  19. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Which company of pads do you have? I have been going down this rabbit hole lately, looking at hex logic pads.
     
  20. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I bought this kit from eshine:

    https://www.eshine.ca/collections/e...er-cable-7424xp-swirl-buster-kit-5-5-ccs-pads

    I think it was $179 or $189 when I bought it, but that was quite a while ago now. I've stuck with the CCS (Lake Country) pads for replacements as well. I've been happy with their performance. I did try the 6.5" pads at one point, but I wouldn't recommend this size. Maybe they are for slower speeds or something, but I found they were too big to get into many places when applying wax and they would vibrate a bit on flat surfaces. 5.5" pad have been good for me. Maybe if you were doing an RV or something else that has a lot of surface area the larger pads would be better.

    The Porter Cable 7424 is definitely loud. I wear ear plugs when I use it. I think Megiuars might have something now and I think there are other options for the random orbitals as well. Again, I've been happy with the performance on the 7424. I think some other reviews mentioned the unit vibrates too much and it bothers their hands. I haven't experienced this.