Stacey the Stagea Station Wagon

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by Murrdawg02, Oct 30, 2015.

  1. IMPUL

    IMPUL Collector of fine japanese lawn ornaments

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    I was just reading this ... Congrats very nice car ..

    +1 on the LM-32's I see them at work and they look like a great winter tire.

    I was also going to say BOV. For that stall issue.

    My r32 did it all the time pulling in to my complex. Or pretty much anytime i had to nose dive the car.
    Just lost to much air and it chokes.
     
  2. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    I think you guys are completely right about the BOV, only though now when I go to have a look for it, in the stock location there is a blanking plate... I know It must be relocated somewhere, but does anyone know of a common place to put it? :\

    I managed to replace the steering wheel, fairly straight forward. The previous owner did have a fuse put in place of the airbag to try and turn the air bag light out, evidently it didn't quite work as the light was still on. Only tricky part was to remove the center pad. a T50 anti-tamper torx had to be used on the left and right side of the wheel. Also you have to make sure the clockspring is orientated the right way, but thankfully Nissan made it only possible to put the wheel on one spot of the clockspring. I suppose it could be turned 360, but my signal light didnt turn of early and I havent ripped out any wires!
    Old
    [​IMG]
    Clockspring
    [​IMG]
    New
    [​IMG]

    Moment of truth, plugged the airbag in and reconnected the battery (Make sure you disconnect it if working with an airbag) stood back and turned the key on annnddddd.... airbag light still on. Flip.

    A search on forums and find a useful post.
    To erase "soft" codes:

    Turn key to the on position
    Press the button on the drivers door jamb 5 times in quick succession
    Leave it for a minute or so
    Press the button on the drivers door jamb 5 times in quick succession
    Turn the key off for a minute or so
    Turn back on, see if light is still flashing

    I tried 3 times, after the third go the light when from a ~1 second flash on/off to a ~2 second flash so I knew I was doing something. Tried it one more time and success! No more airbag light. Apparently this can also be caused by a low voltage battery, which I had so maybe that had something to do with it.

    Anyways with the new wheel which is considerably bigger in diameter its alot lighter steering, which is kind of disappointing but probably nicer for a daily.

    In other news, I inspected the left rear coilover and it does look like it may be blown :( I think it has to be sent to Apexi USA to get rebuilt. Unless someone knows somewhere in Canada? The bushing on the bottom looks suspicious, but considering the amount of oil on the shock I believe it is blown.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2015
  3. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    2 Medium sized coffees for reference
    [​IMG]
     
  4. mekazilla

    mekazilla Theoretician

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    Perfect! I'm sold.
    The legacy cupholder right over the stereo is the worst design I have ever seen. Can't operate radio or climate if you have drinks, which also spill onto the radio.
     
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  5. IMPUL

    IMPUL Collector of fine japanese lawn ornaments

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    Show us under your hood. The bov should be obvious. Could be ext.wg if you dont see a vtabov.
     
  6. Dah_Hunter

    Dah_Hunter Looking over your shoulder, so you dont have to.

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    It is leaking any oil..

    Im just curious because a car i got out of the same container, was under it and has some oil on the wind shield and hood..
     
  7. Greg

    Greg Local Grumpy Moderator

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    Pfft, Mitsubishi did that in 1996 with my Legnum. :p

    Buuuut seriously now. Awesome car. Weird to see it in red, but I like it!
     
  8. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    Thanks very much! I cant wait to really drive it. Inspection scheduled for Thursday *fingers crossed*!
    I do like Legnums as well and would buy one, but this one came up at the right time.
     
  9. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    Well it didn't pass- surprise!

    DRLs- I did wire them up but apparently they failed it. Not sure why I am going to have to question that one.
    Brake pad out of specification- Again not really sure why it would fail other than if the pad was worn, I didnt have a good look at it yet. Anyone know how to identify what pads I need for my front brakes?
    Left front outer tie rod- Already ordered a replacement from PartSouq
    Front bumper needs to be attached better.

    All n' all not bad, just getting parts is the hassle.
     
  10. Megatol

    Megatol Mr. Toyota

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    That sucks :(

    DRL: they just should turn on automatically and emit white or amber light. it would be interesting to know why they failed it. I once saw guy at OOP and his DRL were some blue LEDs which you can see only from 3 meters.
    Pads: they usually give inspection report with thickness. May be they had uneven thickness?

    Send me you frame number and I will tell you pads part#.
     
  11. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Not sure about that working Megatol, it has mismatched Brembos!

    Good question about the brakes, I was wondering how that would work since you kind of have random brembos on there. The rears look like off of a Subaru.. but the fronts I don't know. Measure the pad, take pictures, I will see if they are the same as my Evo's.
     
  12. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    So! It turns out the front Brembo brakes are most likely from and Evo 5/6/7/8/9/10. I took the caliper off and found a stamped number '20713701'. Did some searching and found a guy on a random forum saying they had brakes from an Evo 7 that has the number. I then went to the Brembo brake pad catalog and found out that pads for a 7 fit all Evos 5+. I was in a rush so I grabbed some Canadian tire pads for an Evo X and viola! Nice thing about the Brembos is you don't have to take the caliper off to replace the pads, just remove the 2 retaining pins and the spring clip and they slide out. The old pads are all 4mm or thicker, according to the inspection anything under 5mm is a fail.
    Any of you Evo guys recommend any brand of pad? I don't plan on keeping the Can Tire ones in for long.

    DRLs are fixed, turned out a wire crimp ripped out on my wire job, doh!
    Left side of the front bumper wasn't properly attached as the mounting hole was broken. I pop riveted a piece of aluminum to where the mounting hole is, so now it is fastened properly.
    We checked both tie rods and they are both in good shape, the left one is slightly dry and cracked but not leaking. I am going to challenge this... even though I already bought a replacement.

    As for the stalling issue, I am pretty sure the car doesnt have a BOV. The original location has a blanking plate and I have not been able to locate another one on the charge piping. I rev'd it a few times, and while there isn't enough load to create a solid air release, it definitely flutters back through the air filter. Is sounds like a pigeon lives in there....
    My thought is if it doesn't have a BOV and all the air is going back through the MAF and screwing with the A/F ratio, causing it to stall.

    I also drained the radiator of coolant and put concentrated coolant in, so now it should be up to spec of Alberta winters. I will test it once I drive it some more and it all mixes.
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2015
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  13. magnavahn

    magnavahn Vahn

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    The rears are also evo? They ressemble a Subaru sti My01+ ( GDB/GGB ), but that might be just the color.

    No bpv/bov? Bpv's can be hidden quite well and they make some fun noises when they pass or fail open/closed. Maybe the previous owner liked his vent to atm bov so much that he kept it?

    Glad everything is getting sorted!
     
  14. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    I have stoptech premium high carbon rotors and street performance pads, they seem to do very well.
     
  15. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    Stacey is Legal! Woooo.
    I didn't bother fighting the tie rod end, I just wanted to get it on the road.

    The rear brakes I am not sure, I will have to look at that another time. And I will look into Stoptech, right now I am leaning towards Hawks but that's just because they sound easy on the rotors, which I want to try and avoid replacing.
     
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  16. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Congrats on getting legal! Did I miss it or did you not have to do anything with the headlights to pass inspection? There was no LHD equivalent to this car was there?
     
  17. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    Thanks!!
    I was really worried about the headlights as they aren't DOT obviously and not even E-coded. No LHD equivalent but the mechanic said they only needed to be aimed to the right. We did that, which was much easier said than done. There are two adjustment screws on the back, one connects to the headlight level motor that raises and lowers the beam and the other one also seemed to only raise and lower the beam. After fiddling with them for 30 min it we said to hell with it, but it passed. :\ *Shrug*

    I was thinking of doing HID projectors (cyber Monday deals) but driving to Edmonton in the dark lastnight, the stock HID headlights are actually quite good.
     
  18. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Very fortunate!
     
  19. Kilroy

    Kilroy Wagon Lover

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    Nice ride! Hope to see you at an Edmonton meet next summer.
     
  20. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    I have been really bad at keeping this up to date but really nothing much has happened.

    I solved the problem of the instrument gauges dying! I had originally thought that it was a bad ground, but found nothing on the subject. When I expanded my search to "2000 Nissan cluster dying" I did find a couple of results of US Maximas having the same issue. The problem apparently is the incandescent back lights for the instrument panel heat up the printed circuit board (PCB ) causing it to fail. Simple solution, replace with LEDs. The cluster is pretty easy to get at, which only involves removing the steering column cowling, and gauge cowling along with all the electrical switch connectors. All that is needed is 4 small T5 LED bulbs, also referred to as 74 bulbs. Since the replacement the gauges havent died once! We will see how it is when its 30 degrees in the summer, but I think it should be solved for good.

    I have completely re-done the stereo system, putting a new head unit in, as well as replacing all 4 door speakers. The rear speakers were blown so that was a must to replace but the fronts where okay. Those were really easy to do as I used coaxal Hertz speakers, which can fit in the stock door brackets with only slight modification to the brackets. The fronts were 2 way splits with the tweeter mounted on the A-pillar (stock). The fronts where a pain in the ass, as the door speakers are molded into the bracket, so you can either cut the speakers out of the bracket (like this guy did), or buy new brackets of Amazon for less than $15. I went the lazy route and ordered the brackets which worked great. Next problem was the wiring. Assuming that there was a stock crossover for the tweeter burred somewhere, I didnt want to use the stock wiring to wire in the new crossovers. But there is no way to easily run new wire to the door speakers without it being a giant pain, so I was a little stuck.
    I decided to use the stock wire going to the door, mount the crossover right behind the head unit and run a new wire to the tweeter. The stock system I *think* didnt use a crossover, but instead just a capacitor on the tweeter. This was the simplest and quickest solution. Fairly happy, but I am getting a bit of static through the tweeters, so it appears I have a weak ground somewhere. Note that getting to the tweeters is a royal pain, as the A-pillar molding is one piece that goes half way down the B-pillar. Meaning if you truly want to remove it, you have to:
    Remove seat
    Remove seatbelt
    Remove passenger roof handle.
    Then remove molding.

    I decided that was too much work, so I only removed the handle, and bent back the molding enough that I could get my fingers in there.

    Side note- when removing the kickpanel, the ECU has 'cockpit' stickers on it? Anyone know what that is?

    I need to post pics soon!
     
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