Rawrock's new Toy(ota)

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by RawRock, Sep 20, 2016.

  1. RawRock

    RawRock New Member

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    Well, if you saw my recent FS post, I was trying to get rid of my GC8, a car I thought I'd own forever!

    That was before this popped up.

    [​IMG]

    I've loved the Hilux's since I spent a year in Australia watching all the cool diesel 4x4's drive by. So when the opportunity to get into this Surf came up, I was ready to follow my dreams.

    It's a 1991, 2.4L with the 3L head upgrade, EGR delete, custom exhaust and some other goodies. I am so excited to get this puppy out to the mountains for some camping!

    I hardly miss the STi. I think it was a solid choice.

    Just needs some new glow plugs, and then mechanically she should be tip top! Then I'll be customizing it further for long road/camping trips. :)
     
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  2. Megatol

    Megatol Mr. Toyota

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    Congrats! This 2.4L engine, is it with turbo or not?
     
  3. RawRock

    RawRock New Member

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    2LTE... turbo 4 cyl diesel. Pulls like a freight train with that auto trans. :p

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I got a ski/snowboard rack with it, but I definitely want a basket for some extra storage! Hoping to take her on a journey west towards the coast next summer!
     
  4. Megatol

    Megatol Mr. Toyota

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    You can test glow plugs if they still work fine.
    BTW, I still have one new OEM Toyota glow plug laying around from Hiace with 3L engine (part# 19850-54120), PM me if you need one.

    I believe original 2L-TE glow plugs are 19850-54090 but since your HiLux have 3L head you probably need glow plugs from 3L.
     
  5. Greg

    Greg Local Grumpy Moderator

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    Congrats! If you take it on a journey out here, she'll feel right at home!
     
  6. RawRock

    RawRock New Member

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    Yep that part # is correct. Previous owner tested the existing plugs, found that just one was weaker than the others, and ordered a set of 4 from down under... they never showed up! I actually work at a diesel parts store and was able to track down some genuine Bosch replacements (in Germany of course) and my cost is around 60$ each plus freight.

    Maybe I need to do more digging, but I thought I found that the 2.8L (3L) and 2.4L shared glowplugs.

    Thanks G! Maybe I'll get out as far as the island! Who knows, still in the early planning stages :)
     
  7. Megatol

    Megatol Mr. Toyota

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    $60 is too expensive :o
    I can sell mine for $30 including shipping :). It is genuine OEM Toyota, got 2 of them from Japan, but after I tested them in the Hiace only one was bad, so I still have one.

    I found these pictures of 19850-54120 and 19850-54090. They have a little bit different size.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. RawRock

    RawRock New Member

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    I was referencing pages 31/32 of this PDF. Has Bosch part numbers and it looks like both engines share the Bosch 0 250 202 096 plugs. What do you think?
    http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/pdf/Bosch_Glow_Plugs.pdf

    I appreciate the offer for the glow plug! But I'm keen to replace all four because they're probably all getting tired and with my luck, another would start to fail after I replaced the first one!
     
  9. Megatol

    Megatol Mr. Toyota

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    My Hiace was 1997, maybe they changed glow plugs a little bit in later revisions of 3L. Anyway, as you can see on the picture that L1 length is just 0.5 mm difference, so I think they are interchangeable.
     
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  10. robbieg

    robbieg Does this and that from time to time

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    Oh what a feeling, amirite?
     
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  11. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Congrats, you'll love that Hilux Surf! My advice would be to get a pre-turbo EGT, boost, and trans temp gauges BEFORE heading to the mountains. It's a real eye opener being able to see what's going on, and WILL change the way you drive. Happy dieseling!
     
  12. RawRock

    RawRock New Member

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    Thanks IanB! I love it so much already! The truck already has the EGT pre-turbo, and with that custom exhaust she runs nice and cool... haven't even seen 300C on it. There is also an external trans cooler installed, no gauge but I would hope it's running cool too.

    My plans include a boost gauge and a water temp gauge because I don't want to trust the factory one.

    On that note - can anyone tell me where the best place would be to put the temp probe in the cooling system? I want the temp gauge to be reasonably accurate, but I don't want to dismantle too much of the engine to install it. :) I was probably just gonna get one of those in-line adapters and install in the top rad hose. Advice?
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2016
  13. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I think that's the most common location. My temp sensor is located in the top rad hose in both my Land Cruiser and Aristo :)
     
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  14. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Take your coolant temp reading from where ever the coolant leaves the head, that's going to give the hottest reading and the best indication of what the engine is seeing. I'm not sure of the coolant routing on that engine, so you'll have to do some research and go from there.

    As for the trans temp, if you can figure out when, and under what conditions your torque convertor locks up, and do everything you can to drive such that it is locked up as much as possible, you'll avoid heat issues there. For example, my trans locks up over about 84km/h in 3rd and 4th gears, with the torque convertor locked up it barely registers on my gauge, so just above 120F, even after hours of highway speeds in 30C heat. I was climbing a gravel road with a speed limit of 60km/h and watched the temps rise to just over 200F, the hottest it got on my entire road trip this summer. Earlier, fully mechanical versions of my trans only have lockup in 4th gear, heat is a much bigger issue for guys with that tranny. As the trans fluid flows through the rad, keeping the trans cool helps keep the engine cool as well.

    300C is about 575F, that is pretty cool. Mine runs around there in town, around 850-900F on the highway. (480C).
     
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  15. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I don't mean to derail RawRock's thread, but that seems really low! I was seeing about 170F with regular highway driving. After a new rad I was running about 150F cruising on the highway. Hill climbing at 60 is the worst (eg. going snow skiing). I think I've hit 260F in those conditions and that was with OD off. Are you running an external cooler...maybe I should put this in the thread about your LC....
     
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  16. RawRock

    RawRock New Member

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    Thanks for the dialogue guys! I know you're in the LC crew but I appreciate talking/learning all the Toyota stuff I can!

    Ian, when you're talking about keeping the converter locked up, is that basically keeping the trans as loaded as possible, like keeping it in a constant kind of acceleration state? I can feel where the trans sort of catches in every gear. I'm not very versed on auto trans stuff.
     
  17. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    I do have an OEM NA spec trans cooler installed on mine, so that would explain why I'm seeing cooler than you are. Bolted right in...but I don't have an intercooler, lol.

    With an auto trans, there's slippage, this is why an auto is less efficient than a manual transmission. The torque convertor is a liquid/liquid viscous coupler, this is where the slippage happens, and when it's slipping, it's generating heat. In the the highest gear (and in some cases other gears), once you achieve a certain speed the torque convertor "locks up", meaning it becomes coupled, there's no more slippage, and it's running at a 1:1 ratio, like a manual trans. This is for highway speeds, to lower revs, and reduce heat buildup in the transmission. Here's a quick vid on how it all works, probably explains it better than I have.



    If you can figure out where and under what conditions your TC locks up, and you can achieve these conditions when climbing, you can easily keep your trans cool. With mine as it locks up in 3rd and 4th, and I have an "O/D off" button (OD is 4th gear), I had excellent control over what my trans was doing in the mountains, and trans temps proved to be a non issue at highway speeds. Lower speeds, where the TC is not locked up, the temps quickly rose.

    Trans Life Expectancy.jpg

    On my truck, I can feel with the TC locks as it feels like you've shifted gears again, and the truck almost lurches forward as the revs drop. I can feel it do this in 3rd and 4th gears around 84km/h. Is your trans electronically controlled, or mechanical/hydraulic like the '90-'92 80 series? Easy to tell if you have an "ECT" button, or an "O/D off" button, it's electronically controlled. I know my surf was electronic, but it was a '96 3rd gen.
     
  18. RawRock

    RawRock New Member

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    Yeah I have the O/D off and ECT buttons. Been playing with them to see how they affect my driving around the city. You recommend having the O/D off for lower speed, stop and go driving like in town?
     
  19. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    ECT = electronically controlled transmission, with the button pressed it moves the shift points higher, helps if you're running larger tires I've found. O/D = 4th gear, so O/D off locks you out of 4th gear. With a diesel, high load, low rpm situations (lugging the engine) is when your EGT's spike. Climbing a hill if you notice you're having trouble carrying your speed, use the O/D off button to drop it into 3rd gear, brings the revs up, engine load decreases, easier to keep your EGT's under control. Around town, driving in 3rd rather than 4th increases the boost you'll see, which increases throttle response as the turbo is already spooled.

    I was really taken aback when I got my gauges installed, and could see what was really going on with the truck. Stock boost on mine is set at 10psi. To drive 100km/h I was pushing 10psi. To go faster than 100km/h meant adding more fuel, no additional air was available, as I was already at the max boost. Extra fuel = extra heat. To drive 120km/h I was seeing EGT's of 1050F, safe max is considered 1250F, leaving very little margin for even slight hills or passing. Increasing the boost level made a huge difference, 120km/h I'm now seeing 15psi, and 150-200F lower EGT's. I cringe to think of how hot my engine must have ran when I drove it home stock through the mountains, and smugly assumed it was fine as it was all stock.

    I'd tell you to up your boost level, but I'm not sure how your electronic injection pump would react/compensate, you'll have to do some research on that yourself.
     
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  20. RawRock

    RawRock New Member

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    Seems like guys have upped the boost on the 2LTE's a little bit before requiring an intercooler. I think I have a boost gauge kicking around. I might play with it in the future but for now it'll stay the way it is. I wish the O/D helped a little more on the highway. I feel like the poor little engine is almost strung out doing 100km/h @ ~3,000rpm.

    Headed to the mountains this weekend, I'll take some pictures if I find some cool roads to explore!