JZX100 Daytime Running Lights DIY

Discussion in 'Toyota' started by Speed Stick, May 21, 2014.

  1. Speed Stick

    Speed Stick The Halifax kid

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    Well I had to rig up some daytime running lights in my 1997 Toyota Chaser for inspection. I searched the web like crazy trying to find a writeup but no luck. Decided to figure it out myself and make a writeup. I tried a few different options but one ultimately worked best.

    I'll start with list of items required.

    1. ATM Fuse Tap which I purchased at Princess Auto for $10 http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Fuses-battery-Accessories/10A-ATM-Dual-Fuse-Tap/8311003.p

    2. Some 15amp fuses, I bought a 5 pack from princess auto for $4. http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Fuses-battery-Accessories/5-pc-15A-ATM-Fuses/8131518.p

    3. Short piece of electrical wire. I just used some speaker wire I had which was 14 Guage.

    4. Needle nose pliers, I say this because I found it difficult to pull out the cigarette lighter fuse with the fuse puller that is provided inside the engine bay fuse box.

    5. Wire strippers, I already one.

    6. Test light is also a good idea.

    Here is the JZX100 fuse box diagrams and legend which I got off JZX100.com.

    [​IMG]
    Engine bay compartment fuse box
    1. Interior light, clock-15A-DOME
    2. Head lamp (left) High-15A-HEAD (RH)
    3. Door Locks-20A-DOORSUB
    4. Radio, wide-25A-RADIO NO.1 Multi-AV Station
    5. Head lamp (left) and low beam-15A-HEAD (LH)
    6. Horn-10A-HORN
    Computer-20A-EFI 7.EFI
    Computer-20A-AM2 8.EFI
    09. Flasher highly-15A-HAZARD
    10. Horta-7.5A-ALT SENCING Sensing
    11. Headlamp (Right) High-15A-HEAD RH (HI)
    12. Head Lamp (right) low-beam-15A-HEAD RH (LO)
    13. Electric Fan-30A-FAN NO.2
    14. Electric Fan-30A-FAN NO.1

    * Tourer V, Tourer S, Tourer

    [​IMG]

    Driver's footwell fuse box
    1. -30A-S/ROOF Moon roof
    2. Taillight, license-plate light, road light-10A-TAIL
    3. Air conditioning, electric fans, rear window U-15A-HEATER Defogga
    4. Door Locks-20A-DOOR
    5. Light switches, light air-conditioning, lighting audio-7.5A
    6. Blinker-10A-TURN
    7. Front driver side power window U-20A-D FR P / W
    8. EFI computer-10A-IGN
    9. ABS, TRC, VSC, computer lights, cruise control-15A-ECU-IG
    10. Brake light-20A-STOP
    11. Starter-7.5A-STARTER
    12. Meter, belt tightness abatement system, wireless door lock-15A-GAUGE
    13. Front window glass containing a heat shield U-20A-FR DEF
    14. Rear driver's side power window U-20A-P RR P / W
    15. Wiper, washer motor-20A-WIPER
    16. Fog-15A-FOG
    17. Rear passenger side power window U-20A-P FR P / W
    18. Audio, AV station-wide multi-10A-RADIO NO.2
    19. Air conditioning, cruise control, rear fog lights, wireless door lock-10A-ECU-B
    20. Rear driver's side power window U-20A-D RR P / W
    21. Shift Lock, Clock, SRS airbag, Electric mirrors Remote-10A-ECU-ACC
    22. Power Seat -30A-P/SEAT
    23. Electrical load, idle up -7.5AI/UP
    24. Cigarette lighter-15A-CIG

    First I tried jumping my fog light fuse for DRL but that didn't work. The fog lights on these cars don't turn on unless your turn the headlights on so it must be connected through the headlight relay or something. Either way, there is a better method.

    I also tried to connect my cigarette lighter fuse (24) directly to both headlight fuses located in the engine bay (12,5). That actually worked but would blow my cigarette lighter fuse after ten seconds. Its a hassle running the wire anyways.

    Then after some thinking I tested fuse #2 of the inside fuse box which runs the little road lights, tail lights and license plate light. Realized it didn't receive power unless I turned the light stalk on the steering wheel one click. So I knew it would work.

    So this is where the actual steps start.

    Step 1: Take your fuse taps and cut the crimp connection off one of them and then strip the wire. Crimp it to the other fuse tap. Then just add your fuses. I used 10amp on one side and 15amp on the other side.

    [​IMG]

    Step 2: Inside the car beside the gas pedal open up the tiny fuse box. Just have to pull on the little knob to get it to pop out then the cover just pops off.

    [​IMG]

    Step 3: I then located the cigarette lighter fuse which is the very bottom right. #24 in the second diagram. I removed the fuse and inserted my fuse tap which I plugged two 15amp fuses into. Cigarette fuse located very bottom right of the fuse box in imagine below.

    [​IMG]

    Step 4: Next locate the fuse for the road lights which is #2 (10amp)on the second diagram, remove the existing 10amp fuse and insert the tap with 10amp fuses fitted.

    That's all, turn the car on and your lights should work! Doing it this way will make this little bulb turn on when you start the car. Your taillights and license plate light will also illuminate but that's fine.

    [​IMG]

    Those are bugs all over my front bumper not chips haha.
    [​IMG]

    Passed the inspection no problem. This is a great method if you don't wish to keep the DRL in afterwards and don't wanna be splicing wires or buying the $50 Hamsar DRL unit. Also, cost me under $15 in supplies and if you really wanted could just use the piece of wire to jump the fuses without the actual fuse tap. Or could have just cut the connector off the end of the fuse tap and inserted it directly into the road light fuse without the extra piece of wire as it was long enough.
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2016
  2. _drew

    _drew New Member

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    excellent idea!

    I just ran a small wire (stripped on both ends) ... wedged one end of the wire in the fuse that controlled my headlights, and the other end into an empty spot in the fuse box wedged in with a fuse that matched the headlight fuse amperage,

    same idea as you... yours is probably safer!
     
  3. IMPUL

    IMPUL Collector of fine japanese lawn ornaments

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    Same deal here ... Had to rig up something similar on the impul.

    Those "add-a-curcuit" fuses are awesome.

    Also for additional 12v gauges and accessories use a powerport bar.
    There pretty sweet to.
     
  4. Dah_Hunter

    Dah_Hunter Looking over your shoulder, so you dont have to.

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    very nice walk through.. I used to do something very smiler to this on R32's.
     
  5. IMPUL

    IMPUL Collector of fine japanese lawn ornaments

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    ^^^^ yup right under the knob , down to the fuse panel.
     
  6. Speed Stick

    Speed Stick The Halifax kid

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    Yup exactly the same idea Drew. Fuse box is the best method imo.

    They really are convenient!

    I'm not too familiar with the powerport bar though.
     
  7. IMPUL

    IMPUL Collector of fine japanese lawn ornaments

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  8. dagleykd

    dagleykd Kei fan extraordinaire!

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    Nicely done! Wiring is always something I've cringed about...I've not done any to my past Impreza or my current Accent but if my kei doesn't come with fogs when I get it, I definitely want to add those (it often gets quite foggy here in Nova Scotia, and the fogs on my Impreza used to help bigtime in inclimate weather in the dark!). That add-a-circuit looks like it would make adding DRLs quite easy for most JDMs, although I guess that depends on the fuse panel, etc.
     
  9. IMPUL

    IMPUL Collector of fine japanese lawn ornaments

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    They come in mini and regular size.
    Max 10amp accessory !
     
  10. dagleykd

    dagleykd Kei fan extraordinaire!

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    10amps? That should be fine, 2 of the tiny 1w or so LED lights I was looking at are only 80milliamps at 12 volts, which is like...0.08 amps, so even if I went with something brighter, I should be fine, haha! (1w is probably simmer than I would want, though)
     
  11. Rygar

    Rygar That's what she said.

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    Nice stock photos, Sean!
    ;)

    Just take it to Halifax Autosport. They'll give your car back with an inspection and no headlight bulbs.
     
  12. Speed Stick

    Speed Stick The Halifax kid

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    Haha damn, amateur mistake. Fixed.