Well I had to rig up some daytime running lights in my 1997 Toyota Chaser for inspection. I searched the web like crazy trying to find a writeup but no luck. Decided to figure it out myself and make a writeup. I tried a few different options but one ultimately worked best. I'll start with list of items required. 1. ATM Fuse Tap which I purchased at Princess Auto for $10 http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Fuses-battery-Accessories/10A-ATM-Dual-Fuse-Tap/8311003.p 2. Some 15amp fuses, I bought a 5 pack from princess auto for $4. http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Fuses-battery-Accessories/5-pc-15A-ATM-Fuses/8131518.p 3. Short piece of electrical wire. I just used some speaker wire I had which was 14 Guage. 4. Needle nose pliers, I say this because I found it difficult to pull out the cigarette lighter fuse with the fuse puller that is provided inside the engine bay fuse box. 5. Wire strippers, I already one. 6. Test light is also a good idea. Here is the JZX100 fuse box diagrams and legend which I got off JZX100.com. Engine bay compartment fuse box 1. Interior light, clock-15A-DOME 2. Head lamp (left) High-15A-HEAD (RH) 3. Door Locks-20A-DOORSUB 4. Radio, wide-25A-RADIO NO.1 Multi-AV Station 5. Head lamp (left) and low beam-15A-HEAD (LH) 6. Horn-10A-HORN Computer-20A-EFI 7.EFI Computer-20A-AM2 8.EFI 09. Flasher highly-15A-HAZARD 10. Horta-7.5A-ALT SENCING Sensing 11. Headlamp (Right) High-15A-HEAD RH (HI) 12. Head Lamp (right) low-beam-15A-HEAD RH (LO) 13. Electric Fan-30A-FAN NO.2 14. Electric Fan-30A-FAN NO.1 * Tourer V, Tourer S, Tourer Driver's footwell fuse box 1. -30A-S/ROOF Moon roof 2. Taillight, license-plate light, road light-10A-TAIL 3. Air conditioning, electric fans, rear window U-15A-HEATER Defogga 4. Door Locks-20A-DOOR 5. Light switches, light air-conditioning, lighting audio-7.5A 6. Blinker-10A-TURN 7. Front driver side power window U-20A-D FR P / W 8. EFI computer-10A-IGN 9. ABS, TRC, VSC, computer lights, cruise control-15A-ECU-IG 10. Brake light-20A-STOP 11. Starter-7.5A-STARTER 12. Meter, belt tightness abatement system, wireless door lock-15A-GAUGE 13. Front window glass containing a heat shield U-20A-FR DEF 14. Rear driver's side power window U-20A-P RR P / W 15. Wiper, washer motor-20A-WIPER 16. Fog-15A-FOG 17. Rear passenger side power window U-20A-P FR P / W 18. Audio, AV station-wide multi-10A-RADIO NO.2 19. Air conditioning, cruise control, rear fog lights, wireless door lock-10A-ECU-B 20. Rear driver's side power window U-20A-D RR P / W 21. Shift Lock, Clock, SRS airbag, Electric mirrors Remote-10A-ECU-ACC 22. Power Seat -30A-P/SEAT 23. Electrical load, idle up -7.5AI/UP 24. Cigarette lighter-15A-CIG First I tried jumping my fog light fuse for DRL but that didn't work. The fog lights on these cars don't turn on unless your turn the headlights on so it must be connected through the headlight relay or something. Either way, there is a better method. I also tried to connect my cigarette lighter fuse (24) directly to both headlight fuses located in the engine bay (12,5). That actually worked but would blow my cigarette lighter fuse after ten seconds. Its a hassle running the wire anyways. Then after some thinking I tested fuse #2 of the inside fuse box which runs the little road lights, tail lights and license plate light. Realized it didn't receive power unless I turned the light stalk on the steering wheel one click. So I knew it would work. So this is where the actual steps start. Step 1: Take your fuse taps and cut the crimp connection off one of them and then strip the wire. Crimp it to the other fuse tap. Then just add your fuses. I used 10amp on one side and 15amp on the other side. Step 2: Inside the car beside the gas pedal open up the tiny fuse box. Just have to pull on the little knob to get it to pop out then the cover just pops off. Step 3: I then located the cigarette lighter fuse which is the very bottom right. #24 in the second diagram. I removed the fuse and inserted my fuse tap which I plugged two 15amp fuses into. Cigarette fuse located very bottom right of the fuse box in imagine below. Step 4: Next locate the fuse for the road lights which is #2 (10amp)on the second diagram, remove the existing 10amp fuse and insert the tap with 10amp fuses fitted. That's all, turn the car on and your lights should work! Doing it this way will make this little bulb turn on when you start the car. Your taillights and license plate light will also illuminate but that's fine. Those are bugs all over my front bumper not chips haha. Passed the inspection no problem. This is a great method if you don't wish to keep the DRL in afterwards and don't wanna be splicing wires or buying the $50 Hamsar DRL unit. Also, cost me under $15 in supplies and if you really wanted could just use the piece of wire to jump the fuses without the actual fuse tap. Or could have just cut the connector off the end of the fuse tap and inserted it directly into the road light fuse without the extra piece of wire as it was long enough.