2 for 1 thread: '93 Land Cruiser & '99 E55t AMG

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by IanB, Jul 26, 2014.

  1. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    A little bit of everything, I really enjoy the car for commuting to/from work in the warmer months, but one wheel drive sucks in the winter. It was starting to get some paint bubbling in a few places, so it was really time for it to go, if I drove it another winter there would be nothing left of it to sell come spring, lol.

    I'm really not sure on replacement plans, or timing. We've been looking at moving outside of the city, so life would be pretty hectic for a while if that comes to fruition. And I'd likely need to build a shop so I had somewhere to work on stuff. I may hold off until life is settled again before buying something else...or I may not.

    Replacement will be either AWD, or manual transmission, or both. But I found that a RWD auto trans is not what I want, and I promised myself no more FWD. I'm only interested in LHD for a car, personal preference, I'm fine with it in my truck though. I might look at some Legacy GT's if something nice pops up locally, or an Audi, who knows. My budget is based on what I got back out of the Benz, which doesn't buy a lot locally, and I'm not interested in another project, something reliable would be ideal. Then the kid in me sees the RS6's and other fun stuff that are selling at auction, and I forget my name along with all common sense, lol.
     
  2. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Last edited: Nov 9, 2017
  3. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    That's a really nice car, great shape, and manual trans! I've found that I don't need a wagon as I just don't use the 3rd vehicle for road trips with the family, and I'd kind of like a sedan next time around. A 330i isn't going to come close to the performance potential of the E55 either...but maybe that's not as important? But maybe it is, lol.

    It would need to be a pretty special car to not be AWD, and I don't think this is it.
     
  4. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Agreed, but it would be a great family/DD car. Fun to drive and pretty economical as well for how much power it does have. My wife's car is getting 10l/100km with 100% city driving. Seems a bit strange that this wagon didn't come with the sports seats. The cruise control is nice though. The wife's car is missing that.
     
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  5. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    I looked at this a bit closer last night, it's a really nice car. Would it have an LSD rear diff?

    How different are the sport seats? I assume much different, lol.
     
  6. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I pulled up the data card and it doesn't say anything about LSD. Doing some searching it sounds like it was an option my only the M cars really came fitted with them. I'd say the odds are low that this car would have a LSD. Mark notes it on his website that it's originally registered in 2004, but 2001 car...from the data card it looks like the car may have been sold new in France since it notes French language version.

    Yes, the sports seats are really nice. Side bolsters on the back and beside the legs. It has the little extension on the front as well, but I don't really use that. My wife's seats are memory too :)
     
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  7. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Too bad this one wasn't an M-package, it's got great potential but comes off looking a bit...bland.
     
  8. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Waved goodbye to the Benz tonight, part of me will really miss that car. Another part of me is happy to have it out of the way after sitting in my garage for the last 3 weeks while the buyer was out of town for work, lol.

    23621702_10159597682955125_7848458114594420551_n.jpg
     
  9. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    With the car out of the picture, I need to get myself organized and get a front axle rebuild completed on the Land Cruiser, and I've got a GTurbo Grunter Extreme sitting on the workbench waiting for its turn!

    I recently wired up and installed the 7 day timer for the webasto heater, what took me so long?!? This thing is great!

    My power windows get really slow when the weather turns cold, I'm now thinking a big part of the problem is the draw the glow plugs put on the electrical system. I need the window to work to get in/out of my parkade at work, so cold starting the truck and leaving at the end of the day meant I had to wait until I was driving and the revs were up a bit to get the window rolled back up, not great. Now that I can set the webasto and have a warm engine when I get to the truck, the power windows work MUCH better...mind you it hasn't really gotten COLD yet...so time will tell if this is an actual fix to my problem or if I'll need to dig in deeper.
     
  10. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Shouldn't you have done that work on the 80 while you had the spare car to drive? LOL!

    I have the same issue with the slow window(s). Particularly the passenger front and I've tried all the quicker remedies. Next thing I'm going to try is this:

    https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/got-slow-windows-heres-the-fix.840926/

    Or at least I think I'm going to try that....
     
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  11. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    In a perfect world, yup. I've got the parts now, but still need to gather some tools like seal drivers, and a few other odds and ends. I'm going to take a Friday off work and bang it out over a long weekend. I've never done this job before, and its fairly involved and very time consuming, although not particularly difficult from what I've read.

    I had good results from cleaning the master window switch contacts, but they were short lived. I replaced the window runs when I got the truck as one was torn and was not carwash friendly, and that didn't seem to make any difference.

    Good link, I may try this out as well...when I have time, lol.
     
  12. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Windows were SLOW when we had a couple bad cold snaps here (wind chills of -37-39), so I found myself looking into the power windows again. It would take about 3 blocks of driving (revs up) to get them closed again, no good when it's that cold.

    Cleaning the master switch contacts yielded decent results, there was a bunch of black residue on the rocker contacts that some electrical cleaner and q-tips took care of. They are still slow, but they are actually moving when you hold the switch. This might need to be an annual maintenance thing.

    Still haven't pinned down a date to tackle the front axle rebuild. I do have an offset seal driver so I can "overdrive" the axle seal to ride on a fresh section of axle, courtesy of "wit's end". Still need all the grease and odds and ends, and some time.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2018
  13. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Front axle rebuild is DONE and in the rearview mirror!

    I took off Thursday and Friday, had it apart and everything cleaned on Thursday, then had a buddy come by and help me with the bearings and seals, then put it back together and cleaned up on Friday. Took me about 18 hours over the 2 days, I could probably knock about 4 off the job the next time. It's a big, messy job no matter how you slice it.

    I also found an app and got some baseline performance figures so I can compare later this summer with the GTurbo Grunter Extreme installed!

    IMG_3449[1].JPG IMG_3459[1].JPG IMG_3460[1].JPG IMG_3461[1].JPG IMG_3454[1].PNG IMG_3455[1].PNG
     
  14. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    I took a crack at installing my new (last fall, lol) GTurbo last week, removed the entire airbox, intake tubing, crossover pipe, EGT sensor from the manifold, heat shield, and once the turbo and manifold were exposed, I realized the manifold has been leaking at the split (2 piece manifold). I didn't have the parts to rebuild the manifold, so I aborted the mission at that stage, and took the opportunity to hit everything I could with some PB Blaster, and reassembled. It looks like I'm going to have to remove my catch can as well to get the room I'll need to work in there.

    Ordered the rings and other bits for the manifold reseal, and all the studs and nuts for the manifold to head, and manifold to turbo connections, hoping I am prepared for whatever comes up next time I dig in to this. I'm hoping to get at it the Thursday evening and Friday leading into July long weekend.

    I did replace the air filter, and fuel filter while I was at it, and pulled all the stuff I'd removed inside and washed them off in the basement sink, so it's not a total loss.

    I also managed to get both vehicles clean, at the same time! Big day!

    Parts.jpg Carbon1.jpg Clean.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2018
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  15. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I saw you posted that on the mud forum too just after it was mentioned....bummer.

    Also, every time you find something like this on your truck I wonder if I should check my truck as well and I'm scared I'll find the same thing! What's the mileage on your truck now?
     
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  16. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    139K and change on it at this point.
     
  17. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    GTurbo install attempt #2 went much better, still a pretty big job though. Definitely needed another set of hands to get the turbo/manifold out and back into the engine bay, it's WAY down in the engine bay, and I needed to be up on a step ladder to reach down in that far. Took me about 10 hours over 2 days. I also ran into a lot of problems getting the stock 2.75" intake tube over the 3" end of the new turbo, I finally got it after a lot of hot water and struggling, but I ordered a 3" to 2.5" reducer bend to replace the stock part so I never have to mess with that again.

    IMG_3511[1].JPG IMG_3512[1].JPG IMG_3513[1].JPG IMG_3514[1].JPG

    Special thanks to my little helper who made sure I was hydrated and cool in the hot garage!

    Initial impressions: spools noticeably quicker than the stock turbo, truck doesn't FEEL a whole lot faster, but seems to effortlessly pull ahead of traffic all the same. It's noticeably quieter than before, you can't hear the howl of the wastegate opening, which may play a large part in the seat of the pants feel. It runs lower boost levels doing 60km/h in 3rd, and most other situations I've tried. I haven't had it out on the highway yet, that's where I suspect the biggest difference will be felt, where the turbo started to be the bottleneck. I'll post again once I've had a chance to drive it some more.

    I'm sure with some more fuel it will scoot along nicely. I'm not sure how to go about tuning that though, there's no hills around here to see if it's going to get too hot. Might have to put it on the dyno? I'm not sure where I'll find time for that before the trip, it's less than a month away now.

    I also ordered a panhard relocation bracket from Delta Vehicle Systems, a new vendor to pop up that based it on the same Icon 3" lift I'm running. That should be here this week, so I'll get that installed and see what kind of difference having the rear axle properly centered under the truck makes.
     
  18. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Last night I installed a DVS (Delta Vehicle Systems) rear panhard relocation bracket. It's designed around the same 3" lift I'm running, brings the panhard attachment point up 3" to keep the suspension geometry correct, and to locate the rear axle centered under the truck where it belongs.

    The results I can best describe as similar to a rear swaybar upgrade, the truck corners much more confidently, and takes bumps more predictably, without the tail wag motion I've grown accustomed to. The truck feels much more settled with less steering correction required, I'm a fan.

    IMG_3522[1].JPG
     
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  19. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Last night I started playing with the main fuel screw adjustment on the injection pump, 1/8 turn at a time with a road test, ended up winding it in 1/2 turn total by the time I was done. It really woke the truck up!

    Boost comes in sooner (not initial spool rpm necessarily, but requires less gas pedal input to bring on boost, and it rises more quickly once it gets going), much beefier midrange power, better top end power, EGT's are still in check, engine is much more eager to rev, transmission seems to be in the correct gear more of the time, and it's actually quieter (more on this in a minute). I'm going to leave it at this level and monitor for a while. I'll bring the tools with me to make adjustments, as once I hit the grades I'll really be able to tell if the tune is too hot, or just right. There's just no way to load it up for minutes at a time around here and get things heat soaked, short of the dyno.

    Also last weekend I resolved an exhaust rattle that showed up following the turbo swap, and had the muffler cut out and replaced with straight pipe. Initial thoughts were it was fine at idle and constant loads, but under acceleration it was louder, and the tone was not great. After a few days of driving, it actually quieted down a bit, but the tone under acceleration was still a problem. After adding some fuel, the tone has actually mellowed out, it's fuller, much nicer sounding IMO. It's also much easier to drive the truck quietly, it doesn't have to work so hard to get up to speed, and even when you punch it it last that metallic, nasty note to the exhaust. We'll see, but I may actually end up leaving it like this. On the highway there is zero exhaust noise at all, which is great! It might actually be quieter than with the muffler if you can believe that.

    It seems like a wild coincidence that the muffler would go right after I swapped the turbo, my best guess is a chunk of carbon got knocked loose from the exhaust and made its way into the muffler. It would rattle when you came to a stop with the trans in D, if you shifted to N it would go away, if you shifted to D it would stay away, almost like the driveline needed to be bound up for it to happen, very annoying though.
     
  20. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    This has been a nightmare week for me.

    Tuesday after work I was ripping around town running some errands, came off the highway and the truck wasn't running right, boost was lazy to build, it sounded like a tractor, and I was seeing 1-2psi at 60km/h cruising speed where I'm used to 5-6.

    First thought was I had a bad boost leak pre-turbo, as a boost leak would still see the turbo spool as normal, just all the boost charge wouldn't be making it into the engine, which was not the case here. I tore everything apart and checked all bolts were tight from the turbo install, no issues were found.

    I pulled out the front driveshaft, down pipe, and dump tube hoping to find something preventing the wastegate flap from sealing, but it looked fine once I got in there. Putting pressure to the WG reference line with a bike pump showed the wastegate opened around 10-12psi, and snapped shut when you released the pressure, I was stumped. GTurbo is in Australia, so they are rolling out of bed around 6PM my time, so I couldn't get timely tech support. I hummed and hawed, and begrudgingly put it all back together.

    I'm still daily driving the thing through all of this which makes it a HUGE PITA!

    Heard back from Graeme @ GTurbo that evening, he suggested adjusting the pre-load on the wastegate...which would involve pulling it all apart again, and messing with the circlip holding the actuator to the WG flap which is in an awful spot while the turbo is mounted on the vehicle, between the engine block and turbo, accessible only from underneath. I decided to go another way and shimmed the actuator away from the turbo body, increasing the pre-load as a result.

    It sounds much less tractor-like immediately, built boost more readily, but still wouldn't hold boost at constant loads like before. I added a 2nd washer and it didn't really make much difference. I think the spring in the wastegate actuator has broken.

    I'm now 12 days from our trip, starting to lose hope the Land Cruiser will be the vehicle we take.