1994 HDJ81 Toyota Land Cruiser

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by RyanV, Jul 18, 2013.

  1. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    You mean fall/spring, lol. You're so lucky that way. I've still got to add a fuel heater, and coolant heater to my HDJ81 before the temp plummets, although the plan is for the Benz to live outside once it's all squared away.
     
  2. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I think about the only thing my truck didn't come with is the winter package. Not that I need it, but it's something I wish it came with. That and maybe a winch just to complete the truck :D

    Damnit! I think I connected the wrong antenna wire to the amp. I connected the power antenna wire rather than the amp control power lead. For now I only get bass when I'm using the radio. Looks like I get to rip my dash apart again...d'oh!!! I do like the sound from the sub better now though. It seems like it hits cleaner than it used to. I guess maybe that's from more volts on the pre-out to the amp?
     
  3. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    Dang! I hate pulling dashes apart, but I think you probably hate it more because it looks like yours is a big project to get to the stereo. On the Safari the center comes out with six screws and I still hate it lol.

    Greater voltage on the pre-outs wont make your sub any louder but it can make it cleaner like you say. The purpose of higher voltage pre-outs is to reduce the electrical noise picked up by stray signals. When the pre-outs from the source is higher, you can also reduce the gain on the amp which will in turn reduce stray noise.
     
  4. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Ya, the dashes on the 80 series LC's are big, LOTS of switches in them, and several very thin areas of plastic so they would be easy to crack, not something you want to pull apart more than a few times.
     
  5. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    It's really just that thin part above the steering wheel that's a pain. I'm always afraid I'm going to break it. I think on the later models they split it somewhere in there so you don't have a long slender piece.

    When I go in to make the change this time I think it will be the forth time I've had it off. Almost averaging once a year LOL!
     
  6. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Spurred on by not being too busy at work and murrdog's awesome Safari, I'm buying this adapter:

    [​IMG]


    FMIC install coming soon :D
     
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  7. Dah_Hunter

    Dah_Hunter Looking over your shoulder, so you dont have to.

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    awesome cant wait to see that.
     
  8. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    Sweeet man! You guys have inspired me to do more, so I am glad it has come full circle!
     
  9. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Well, sometimes you get lucky. I was able to fish out the correct wire for the sub connection through the ash tray slot, so I didn't have to rip apart the dash to get the sub working properly. Yay! :) It was a bit of a PITA to get the wires connected, but easier than taking the dash apart again.
     
  10. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I did some work out near Shalalth this week. I've never been out this way before and it's been a while since I've had to travel for work, so it was nice :) I might get a bit of a video up as well, but it won't be that interesting. The views would have been amazing, but the weather was total crap.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This was definitely one of the most unstable slopes I've ever seen. Boulders could let go at any time. With the heavy rain there was small stuff almost continually coming down.

    [​IMG]

    Shalalth

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    As per this other thread:

    http://forum.import-era.com/threads/diy-intercooler-piping.1023/

    I was thinking of trying to do my own intercooler piping....not doing that any more. I've looked at it a number of times and I think it would be too tight for me to fiddle with it on my own. I'm still going to get a FMIC installed, but I'll get ATEB or someone to install it for me. The only way I'll do it myself is if I had some way of essentially scanning the engine bay to get dimensions and then I could 3D CAD the pipe runs myself and send it out to get custom made.
     
  12. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    Could you do something like this? Not sure if they have your engine, but at least you could do it yourself and it has been tried/tested. And Safari is expensive but so is labor...

    Not saying by any means doing it that way is wrong, just trying to give other options. :)
     
  13. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I'd love to get a Safari kit and install it myself, but I can't justify spending something like $2200 on a Safari kit to install myself when I can have a shop install a kit for me for about $1500 with parts and labour.

    If I could find a used Safari kit for cheaper I'd be all over it, but I doubt that happens.
     
  14. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Safari kit would be sweet, but too much money. I'm watching to see what you come up with...
     
  15. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    Yea I hear you guys. I looked at doing their whole kit for my truck, but with shipping it would be outrageous. That was for turbo, inter cooler and exhaust. Good luck and keep us updated.
     
  16. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I'm thinking new turbo as well. I don't need one yet, but at 210k kms and boosting 17psi for the last 70k kms I don't know how much life it has left. There are some cheap options out there for making some minor improvements, but if I'm going to the effort of taking everything apart I'd like to see some gains. The GTurbo is expensive (I think about $2000) but ATEB has come up with something similar with some CNC machined bits from their friends in Malaysia. Gains are similar to the GTurbo with getting boost at lower RPM. I'm not looking for more hp gain, but seeing boost lower down would be nice :)

    It will end up similar to this:

    http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ateb-hdj81-intercooler.644402/

    I'd rather keep the hot side lower down like the Safari kit since it looks a lot cleaner, but it's likely much easier to come up as shown in those pics. Also, it will be a different intercooler that feeds straight across. I'm not sure why they put that one in with the in/out at the bottom.
     
  17. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I stopped by ATEB last night and they figured we might try a bit bigger intercooler on my truck. The smaller one works just fine, but it's basically the same price for one that is a bit bigger. Now I'm debating between one that has a core of 18"x12"x2.75" or 18"x12"x3". The price difference is negligible since you can get the one with the 3" core with free shipping off ebay. Would 0.25" make much of a difference? It's not a big dimension, but will have an impact on volume. The slightly thinner core might make it easier to install though. Also the listed weights differ by more than I could expect. The 3" core is listed as 22lbs and the 2.75" core is listed as 12lbs.

    Two intercoolers here:

    2.75"

    http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...roduct_Code=IC0006-25-TF&Category_Code=IC25CO

    3"

    http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...R&Product_Code=IC0006-25&Category_Code=IC30CO
     
  18. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Actually....just looked at that again. They must have the same tanks on the ends because the 2.75" one still has the same overall width. Might as well go with the 3" core then.
     
  19. Murrdawg02

    Murrdawg02 Danger to the manifold

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    I dont know how deep you want to get into it, but this is a pretty good read.

    Personally I would probably go with the 2.75" for mounting sake. Also as you get thicker cores, they have a greater potential to choke off air passing over the fins and reducing the efficiency of the intercooler. But either one will work I am sure!

    One of those weights has to be wrong... 22lb aluminum intercooler does not sound right.
     
  20. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Ryan,

    Do you have a tranny cooler installed? If not, might want to leave some space to add one of those.