1994 HDJ81 Toyota Land Cruiser

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by RyanV, Jul 18, 2013.

  1. RyanV

    RyanV Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,964
    Location:
    Langley, BC
    Not on the list above, but something else that needed done was the seal where the steering column passes through the fire wall.

    Before:

    [​IMG]

    You can see how much dust and crap is around the seal. The insulation that's there was full of dust too.

    Old vs new:

    [​IMG]

    I didn't take a photo of the new one installed. Lots of people on the Mud forum noted about the steering column not being centered in the opening. You can see that in my first photo as well, but I didn't find it to be a problem with the installation of the new seal. I just left the two bolts for the seal loose until I reconnected all of the steering column components. There was lots of play to move the seal around. I also applied some white lithium grease on the seal and shaft. Hopefully that helps.

    Started on a spare set of front brake calipers. The one on the right, the pistons and other components actually look ok, but the one on the left is pretty bad. I've ordered all the parts to rebuild both, and I will rebuild both. I might reuse the pistons from the one set if they come out ok and don't have any rust. All I had time to do was hose them down with brake cleaner so far.

    [​IMG]
     
    IanB likes this.
  2. Dah_Hunter

    Dah_Hunter Looking over your shoulder, so you dont have to.

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    2,447
    Location:
    Lower Rainland (BC)
    Pro Tip, if you cant get the Pistons out. Use a camp stove and a crappy pot and Boil them up. Thats what i had to do on my R34. when i was rebuilding the Calipers. i was skeptical but it worked. ;) Caliper soup.
     
    RyanV likes this.
  3. RyanV

    RyanV Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,964
    Location:
    Langley, BC
    Thanks Ben, I didn't need to resort to that, but that's a good tip :)

    It was a bit of a struggle to get the pistons out. Single piston calipers are so much easier! At first I was going to try and save the set that looked relatively new, but it was getting to be too much of a PITA to get them out without damaging them. I really hate it when the piston pops out (using compressed air). Scares me every time!

    [​IMG]

    The newer set was actually harder to remove than the older one. I guess that's because the seals are in better condition?

    Definitely going to be a bit of work to get these cleaned up. Looks like some sanding will be required to smooth out sealing surfaces in addition to getting the stuff off the outside.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. IanB

    IanB New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2013
    Messages:
    774
    Location:
    Winnipeg, MB
    Why not just buy some remans and use those for cores? That looks like a lot of work, interested to see the end results!
     
  5. RyanV

    RyanV Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,964
    Location:
    Langley, BC
    Yup, I debated this. I think it would have cost me the same for the cheapest remans off RockAuto as it did to buy the rebuild parts from Toyota. If this doesn't go well, then I'll just buy the cheap remans and run them until they seize. In the mean time I would plug away at refreshing one of the other sets I have. I haven't had good success running remans (eg seize up quickly) and buying remans only to rebuild would probably cost the same as just sourcing remans from Toyota.

    Current idea is to give them a quick once over with a brush on a drill and a wire brush on a Dremmel. Then soak in vinegar for a few days (this has worked well for me in the past). Go over again with the wire brushes, and then probably a soak in vinegar again.
     
  6. RyanV

    RyanV Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,964
    Location:
    Langley, BC
    Cleaned up the easier one. Second one is soaking in vinegar. I think it will take a few rounds of soaking.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    IanB likes this.
  7. RyanV

    RyanV Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,964
    Location:
    Langley, BC
    The second caliper cleaned up ok. I could have done more, but the key areas close to the pistons cleaned up well and I didn't feel like putting in more time trying to sand down the other parts or find another means of getting it done.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Both calipers rebuilt.

    [​IMG]

    I also got two coats of paint done on the weekend. I'll bake them tonight to cure the paint and then they're ready to go.
     
    IanB likes this.
  8. RyanV

    RyanV Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,964
    Location:
    Langley, BC
    I got the front calipers replaced last night.

    [​IMG]

    I think I'm pretty happy with the look, but the next time I do this I'll try the VHT paint. Once this POR15 paint got brake fluid on it, it would come off when rubbed. A bit disappointing, but I thought that might happen. You can sort of see the caliper is more shiny on the inner top edge. That's one spot I had to wipe some brake fluid off.

    On to the rear brakes and rear axle rebuild. I'll get stuff ready in the next week and then on the 9th I'm going to take the day off work and get the job done....hopefully...
     
    IanB likes this.
  9. Dah_Hunter

    Dah_Hunter Looking over your shoulder, so you dont have to.

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    2,447
    Location:
    Lower Rainland (BC)
    I used the VHT paint when i did mine, it held up well.
     
  10. IanB

    IanB New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2013
    Messages:
    774
    Location:
    Winnipeg, MB
    I've also used VHT caliper paint a number of times, deals with heat and brake fluid well.
     
  11. RyanV

    RyanV Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,964
    Location:
    Langley, BC
    I got the rear brakes done, rear bearings repacked and changed out the rear diff fluid. I haven't done any work with gear oil before....man, that stuff stinks! Both sides the existing bearings looked ok. Next time, I will plan to change them out though. Interestingly, the right side had almost no grease left, but there was gear oil which seemed to lubricate the bearings ok, because the right side looked a bit better than the left.

    I didn't take many photos during the work since my hands were usually pretty greasy. Here's the left side spindle.

    [​IMG]

    Similar to the font, it appears there is a small groove where the oil seal rides on the axle shaft (spindle for the front). I'm guessing it won't be long before there's gear oil on the bearings again. I'll have to look into this more for the next time I have to do this job. Reading ahead before I did the work, I didn't see anyone mention overdriving this seal or anything like on the front.

    [​IMG]

    Also, both sides had grooves on the axle shaft which I thought was weird. It wasn't the same on both shafts and there aren't any grooves inside the spindle, so it's just a manufacturing or balancing thing? That old paper gasket was a PITA to clean off.

    All back together again. I'm debating whether I'm going to paint the hub black or just coat it with Fluidfilm.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. RyanV

    RyanV Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,964
    Location:
    Langley, BC
    Two things I forgot to add while I was quickly typing this out yesterday was I found that the retaining nut on the left side was only finger tight. As soon as I removed the lock screws I could just undo it by hand. No way this can back off once the retaining screws are in, so this is how it was installed. As much as its annoying me to make time to work on my own vehicles these days, finding things like this make me happy that I do.

    The second thing was my own mistake. While waiting for the gasket cleaner to work its magic on the first axle shaft, I thought I'd start removal of the second axle shaft. Got it removed, great! Finish cleaning the gasket off the old shaft, new gasket and install. For the install, the shaft needs to be pressed in using the nuts and stubs from on the hubs. While doing so it rotated...The good is that I did lock the rear diff before starting the job, but the bad was that now rotating it with the second shaft removed, the splines on the shaft no longer lined up with the diff. I was able to get it in by rotating the first side bit by bit, but this took a while until it was just lined up. Definitely happy I was able to get it back in that way. I was reading through other threads where people hadn't locked their diff and it sounded like a real PITA to get it all back together.
     
  13. RyanV

    RyanV Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,964
    Location:
    Langley, BC
    One of those little things that just annoy me was the rusty spots on the wiper arms:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I got these sanded and painted. Pretty happy with the results. If I were to do it again, I would skip the clear coat that I topped it with. I'm hoping that it will make the paint job last longer, but it looks too shiny. It was more satin black with just the paint which I think looked better.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It looks like the edges are missing paint, but it's just the reflection from the lights.

    I also put Fluid Film on the rear hubs before I put the wheels on and sprayed the front and rear axles and a few other spots with minor surface rust on the underside. Almost ready to go back on the road. I just need to replace the front left window motor. I think the other items on my list will need to wait until next Spring or if I get a free day sometime.
     
    tperkins and IanB like this.
  14. Dah_Hunter

    Dah_Hunter Looking over your shoulder, so you dont have to.

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    2,447
    Location:
    Lower Rainland (BC)
    Oh man. do i hate Rusty Wiper arms. I never bother to clear coat, i just use flat black Rust-olium. its always good enough. i do clients cars sometimes just cause they bother me so much.
     
    RyanV likes this.
  15. RyanV

    RyanV Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,964
    Location:
    Langley, BC
    Trying to make this beast a bit quieter for longer highway trips. Starting by putting Dynamat on the outer skin of the doors with Noico 315 mil insulation. I picked up the Dynamat years ago from someone who had used part of a couple of kits. I have enough to do the two front doors. If this seems like it works well, I'll get the Noico product rather than Dynamat.

    So far I've just done one door. Dynamat in:

    [​IMG]

    Rolled it out with this which I also picked up years ago with the intention of using it for the Dynamat:

    [​IMG]

    Noico insulation installed with seams taped.

    [​IMG]

    While I have the doors opened up I'm also placing Fluidfilm in the bottom since I'm getting a bit of rust at the bottom of the doors.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2020 at 8:18 AM
    IanB likes this.
  16. RyanV

    RyanV Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,964
    Location:
    Langley, BC
    No photo, but insurance is on and driving her again. Feels good and also a bit odd given that the driving position is pretty much the total opposite of what I've been doing for the past 5 months. I think since I started driving RHD (over 10 years ago now) that's the longest stretch I've gone without driving something RHD.
     
    IanB likes this.
  17. RyanV

    RyanV Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,964
    Location:
    Langley, BC
    While adjusting the routing of boost lines to make the engine bay look cleaner I routed the pressure line for the boost gauge off the line that goes to the MBC. Not surprisingly, this doesn't work. You don't get the correct pressure reading. In revising the lines again, it became very obvious that some of the boost lines (pretty much everything except what runs to the MBC and wastegate) are old and need to be replaced. Maybe I'll gain a bit of response after changing these lines. The one that I pulled off the factory pressure sensor slipped off really easily, so it has to be leaking at least a little bit.