1994 HDJ81 Toyota Land Cruiser

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by RyanV, Jul 18, 2013.

  1. Dah_Hunter

    Dah_Hunter Looking over your shoulder, so you dont have to.

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    That looks good.

    I like it.
     
  2. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Those wheels fit perfect, and I like the dark bronze with the green. Those tires though...look too passenger car, they look out of place on such a badass truck IMO. The tires hold the wheels back.
     
  3. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Thanks! :)

    Agreed, but as I mentioned this thing is basically a grocery getter for the next few years, so it made sense to get these less aggressive tires for now.

    I have only driven about 100km on this setup, but initial observations are that there seems to be lest tire noise. I think I'd now describe the noise more as a "whirring" where as the TA's were more of a "humming." The ride is definitely smoother. I'd guess that this is either due to the tires balancing out better or the fact that the wheels are a proper hub-centric fitting. Looking at the new wheels/tires, two didn't have any weights to balance out and the most on any rim was 2.5oz. With the BFG's all the wheels had weights with the most being 4.5oz.
     
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  4. ftgf

    ftgf New Member

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    Beauty man. Love the stealth customs.
     
  5. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    YES!!! Depo headlights arrived yesterday! Not new, but in decent shape. I'll have to get some Lamin-X or something to protect the glass. The plan is to retrofit them with projectors and HID. No idea when I'll get to it, but I'm happy to finally have these headlights. I've been wanting them for a while.

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    Otherwise, I've been getting a bit of wandering with the steering the last few weeks and then on Thursday it started making some noise like it as an issue with the wheel bearing. I tore into it last night and the nuts definitely needed to be tightened. It took a long longer than it should have though because when I opened up the second side I realized I forgot to fold the tab over the outer nut on the first side. Bonehead move. At least I realized it.
     
  6. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I got the air box from a Duramax installed yesterday. Well, mostly installed. I still need to get it mounted. I have a piece of aluminum flat bar that I might use to support the air box. For now it's just "loose" in there. It's not really that loose though. First drive today I didn't run it hard, but there is definitely a lot more induction sound starting from 1800 rpm. I need to order a new air filter and then I'll see what it's like as RPM's climb.

    Old stuff all removed.
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    Turbo still looks good and no noticeable shaft play. I think I've got 40-50,000 kms on it now.

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    "Installed"

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    I might still trim a bit more off the bottom to get it to sit just a bit lower. I'll pop the hood later today and see if there is a mark from it hitting the hood as it currently sits.
     
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  7. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Is that airbox pulling from the fender, or the engine bay?
     
  8. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I'd say a little bit of both right now. You can see the inlet in the last photo of this post:

    1994 HDJ81 Toyota Land Cruiser

    That large opening in the box is the inlet and is facing the opening in the fender where the stock box pulls air from. I intend to "seal" it up to the side, but I'm still thinking about how to do that. I want to get the box fixed in place first, so I know exactly where it will be sitting and can take measurements. My first thoughts are to find some closed cell foam to bridge the gap between the box and the fender; however, the gap might be too large and the foam not rigid enough, so it could end up collapsing towards the inlet. I have a few ideas on how to make it more rigid, but haven't bought any foam yet to do any testing.
     
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  9. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I got a new air filter in and gave it a run...It was boosting 1.5 bar (~22 psi) before, and now with just the Duramax air box and filter and no other adjustments it's boosting to 1.7 bar (~25 psi). I'll adjust it back down to 1.5 bar. I'm interested to do some runs up some mountain passes to see what kind of difference it makes. I'm not sure I'm seeing any earlier spool or anything, but it seems have a bit more "growl" from the engine. I'm sure I'd notice the turbo response more if there were more hills on my daily drive. Nothing but flat land these days.
     
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  10. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Don't you talk to me about flat land, lol.
     
  11. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Got a much needed wash over the weekend. Now tucked into the garage to tinker away on it when I get some time.

    I don't know why, but it always surprises me how well this rig cleans up :D

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  12. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Dang I like those wheels.
     
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  13. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Before I took this off the road I noticed the A/C wasn't working. While working on getting the Duramax airbox mounted this weekend, I noticed a wire that wasn't connected to anything. Looks like it's broke off right at the connector at the A/C compressor. No idea what the function is of this, but sure to be a reason why it's not working!

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    I have no idea how I'm supposed to fix this. Just buy a whole replacement cable? I'll have to see if I can find that. Or maybe find a vehicle with the same connector type, clip off the cable and then splice it in. Probably a better idea. I'd also guess that most Toyota's of the same vintage will likely have the same type of connector. Time to search!
     
  14. tperkins

    tperkins Devout AYC Disciple

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    Should be able to buy new connectors. https://bmotorsports.com/

    If you can't find the exact one you can always re-pin to a different 1 wire connector entirely.

    @pitty will probably know more
     
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  15. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    I had a quick look in the EPC but was not able to locate the harness or connector unfortunately.
     
  16. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Alright, I finally finished getting the Duramax air box mounted. I managed to use the mounting locations for the factory box and some aluminum flat bar to get it all to work.

    Here's the piece of flat bar that I bent that uses the two bolt locations closest to the engine. Upside down in the photo of course:

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    Here's how it's secured from the inside of the box.

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    And a little tab on the front right corner

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    I'm definitely happy with how it sits. When I was doing the test fitting prior to securing it, I was concerned it might touch the hood. Yes, I could have trimmed more of the bottom if that was the case, but I didn't want to do any more of that.

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    It's not quite done I guess. I'm going to pull it back out and paint the aluminum flat bar and I still need to close the fender gap to the air box. I also plan to clean up the wiring, so i'll get the wiring done first and then figure out something to close the gap. I have military spec terminals coming for the battery, and a bus bar that I'll mount somewhere for power connections.

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  17. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    My MBC has been just resting loosely on top of my battery for WAY too long, so it feels good to finally get it mounted to a clean location.

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    Rebuilt the spare set of rear calipers with new pistons as well.

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    I have a G2 two part epoxy paint kit I was going to use for the calipers, but I decided I don't want them to be silver. Especially with the darker wheels now, I think the silver paint on the calipers wouldn't look right. Trying out this Por-15 high temperature paint in flat black. I just painted a mounting bracket to see what it would look like and I think it will be ok. I think less grime and what not would stick on the caliper if I went with something gloss, but I'll see how this goes.

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    I'd like to have this back on the road for October, but with limited time I'm not sure I'll get everything done by then. At a minimum I'd like to:
    1. Finish painting the rear calipers.
    2. Inspect and possibly replace rear wheel bearings, seals etc.
    3. Install new brake components on the back.
    4. Inspect front knuckles and top up grease.
    5. Replace front diff fluid.
    6. Replace front left window motor.
    7. Install sound deadening on front doors.
    8. Replace front fender gaskets.
    I'll see how things go...
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2020
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  18. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    I'm not sure if you need to remove the window to replace the window motor, but I do know that if you need to remove a front window you need to first remove the window visor, as the glass comes out the top and to the outside...which was a HUGE PITA when my front window popped out of the track after trying to roll down the window after the carwash in the winter.

    If you get around to doing the front fender gaskets, take some pics and post up what is involved as that's on my list of things to do as well, lol.
     
  19. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I think I managed to pull my window out before with the visors still in place before. I had the same thing happen to me before with the window popping out of the track and it happened several times on the rear window. As a result I put a small amount of silicone between the rubber and the window. Hasn't pulled out since :)

    I started to do the front flare gaskets years ago, but it was a PITA to reach in the hole from the engine bay to get at two of the nuts that need to be removed so I said forget it at that time. Now years later and my flare gaskets look even worse. I'm going to have to persevere this time and get it done.

    One other thing for the list is replacing the seal where the steering column passes through the firewall. It completely gone and a noticeable amount of cold air comes in there in the winter.
     
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  20. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Another item added to the list last night. Rebuild front brake calipers. This was originally on my list as I've had the truck for 200,000 kms and haven't had to do the front calipers yet. I also wanted to paint the front and rear at the same time. To save down time, I was thinking I'd skip it, but after looking at the brake pads it looks like both front calipers are likely dragging a bit.

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    A bit hard to tell in this photo, but the outside pad (right side) is worn more than the inside, and the bottom is worn more than the top.

    I was adding grease to the knuckles at the time I noticed this, so one positive is that I was able to complete that task, so I will hold off on the front knuckle rebuild for now.
     
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