1994 HDJ81 Toyota Land Cruiser

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by RyanV, Jul 18, 2013.

  1. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I changed my oil this morning and it looks like my Fox shocks have suffered the same fate as Ian's :( Looks like it's just the fronts at the moment. I suspected there might be something going on since the truck seemed a little more "bouncy" when coming to a stop. Also notice I think the ball joints on the front sway bar need to be replaced.

    While changing the oil I was able to get the interior panel back on to cover up the amp, so it's nice to finally have that complete. I just cut the plastic around the "rivet" that was attaching the pocket to the panel, so if I alter the amp orientation it shouldn't be too hard to reattach the pocket with some sort of strong adhesive.

    Get a few things done and add a few things....seems to be a never ending list:
    • Install new turbo (install EGT probe pre-turbo) and retune
    • Get front shocks rebuilt or replaced
    • Replace ball joints front sway bar
    • Power steering reservoir has small leak (not a necessarily a problem since the level is ok, just a nuisance and seems to be common)
    • Replace gaskets on front fender flares
    • Replace front quarter panel side markers
    • Should repack front and rear bearings
    • Transmission is due for a flush
    • I'm picking up the Fujitsubo exhaust and ARC intake in the next few weeks
    • Just a simple clean! So dusty and dirty!
    • And i'm sure there's more...
    With the exhaust my plan is to have the EGT probe installed pre-turbo. I have a second EGT gauge and I want to run around for a while with an EGT gauge reading pre-turbo and one reading post turbo. I'm interested to see the difference in EGT's. Lots of discussion out there about this, so I'm interested to see the difference in readings. I've read a lot that it's xxx degrees different, but I doubt it's a liner relationship to say it's a fixed value different between the readings. The only thing that's a bit of a PITA with the comparison is one gauge is F and the other C, so I'll just have to document/remember and do the math to compare later.
     
  2. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    As I mentioned in Ian's thread, the starter went on the truck. No time to deal with it myself, so I sent it to the shop to get done and had them install the new turbo and relocate the EGT probe at the same time as well as flush the transmission. I'm going to have to get used to the pre-turbo EGT's. I've been reading post-turbo for such a long time. I was hoping to get a new gauge rigged up so I could read pre and post, but apparently the gauge I wanted to swap in was missing something to thread it in...or something like that. I'll have to look into it because I'd still like to run both for a bit to see the difference pre to post EGT's.

    I have only driven the truck home, but initial impressions with the new turbo are not quite what I was expecting. I was hoping for more grunt and boost low down. There is noticeably more power in the higher RPMs, but the turbo doesn't seem to spool much earlier than the stock turbo. Once it starts to spool the boost definitely builds faster than the stock, but I was hoping i'd be boosting more lower down. However, this might just be my first feeling since I've been driving the Aristo for the past two weeks, so it drives much different with a lot more power on tap at all times. I'll see what I think after driving it to work this week on familiar roads and routes.

    One thing that could be causing a slower response is the MBC. I don't know why John likes to use the cheapo one. I find it's either on or off with really no adjustment to the amount of air it allows to bleed off. I'll be swapping the Dawes MBC back in and adjusting when I get some time. The spool noise from the turbo is quite different than the stock CT26 as well. I'm not sure if it's just because it's a different turbo or if there is a difference going to a ball bearing, but there is less of the high pitched sound I used to get. You can definitely hear this new turbo spooling, but it sounds more like air rushing than the turbo really working hard...if that makes sense.

    More driving impressions to come after I drive it around some more and change out the MBC :)
     
  3. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    For the turbo spool time, it might help if you adjust the off-boost cam setting on the boost compensator lid so you're getting more fuel before boost comes in?
     
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  4. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Thanks Ian. It's a good place to start, but since I don't know where everything is presently set I have no idea where it is presently sitting on the lobe. I could just try it and see. eg. turn 1/8 turn and if it makes it worse, just turn it back. Eventually, I'll get in there myself, mark up the pin and see how everything is set.
     
  5. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    Exactly, that's the one adjustment of the pump you COULD do by trial and error, just make sure to mark it before adjusting, and make a change, if it's worse go the other direction.
     
  6. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Finally got the second EGT gauge rigged up over the weekend. I had to order a fitting for the Greddy EGT probe, so it was a while for that to get here and then I needed the time to get it put in which I did this weekend :)

    No photos, but what I've done for now is set up the Greddy EGT gauge to read pre-turbo and the Glowshift to read post turbo because after I have confirmed the Greddy gauge is reading properly and I'm done comparing pre to post turbo values I'm going to leave the Greddy gauge and ditch the Glowshift. The Glowshift looks good if the light is dim, but I can't read the digital numbers in bright sunlight. Kind of a problem when you are trying to keep an eye on your EGT's in the summer months! The Greddy is also analog and in Celsius, so that will take some getting used to since I've been reading digital and Fahrenheit for the past 5 years or so.

    Anyway, initial readings look ok. With the Glowshift pre-turbo I was reading 700F @ 100km/hr on flat ground, and I was seeing 370C (which calculates to bascially 700F) at the same speed on the Greddy this morning, so it looks good. For comparison I was seeing 500F post turbo. Not surprisingly the pre-turbo reading is more responsive than the post turbo. This was both on temperature increases and decreases. I'm interested to see the difference when I'm doing hill runs with higher EGT's.
     
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  7. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I have the roof rack removed now that I have a place to store it and it appears it may have been having a larger impact on fuel economy than I thought. Mixed driving, highway, in town, and heavy commuting I just logged the best fuel economy I've seen (10.39 l/100km or 22.6 mpg).

    Still debating about what to do with the shocks. Looks like one of the rears might be on it's way out. Do I spend almost $400 USD to have all four rebuilt to last just a couple years again or do I put that money towards an all new setup like Ian did?...hmmm...
     
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  8. magnavahn

    magnavahn Vahn

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    I'm a fan of doing things once (whether a it's buying a paint roller or a motorcycle suspension). Ian's setup sounds pretty cool.
     
  9. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Agreed. The Icon setup is just a little pricey. It would definitely be nice to know what kit I have for the suspension. Right now I have no idea what my springs are. I'm thinking save up some money, hope the CAD doesn't nose dive and hope for a Black Friday deal or something. My work these days doesn't require me to be running a 4x4 anyway, so I can park it and drive the car rather than driving around on blown suspension.
     
  10. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Running summary of pre vs post turbo temps:

    100km/hr, flat, 5-6psi

    Pre: 700F
    Post: 500F

    100km/hr, incline, 10psi

    Pre: 950F
    Post: 590F

    I feel like the second reading above isn't right, but I believe that's what I was seeing. I'll see if I can confirm when I drive the same route on Friday. Definitely saw a delay in the post turbo reading. I'd really like to do a run over the Coq to see what I get for numbers, but can't justify driving out there just for that. Hopefully, doing to do a run up a hill in North Vancouver on my lunch break, but I'll see what traffic if like because if it's too busy I won't be able to carry the speed I want up the hill. I'm also looking to compare to after I put in the ARC intake since it pulls air from inside the engine bay.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2017
  11. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    I believe your numbers are accurate, and it illustrates perfectly WHY you can't just put an EGT post turbo and add 200F to the number and assume you know the pre-turbo EGT figures, it isn't a linear relationship between pre and post turbo EGT readings. Pre-turbo is the best indication of what's going on in the combustion chamber, there are numerous factors that affect how much the reading will change across the turbo, I wouldn't trust post turbo EGT for tuning purposes.
     
  12. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Yep, you're right. The second set of numbers I posted are correct. Saw it twice today while I was driving. I was assuming 400F drop at the top end when I only had a post turbo gauge and even that was likely off (I saw 1200 pre turbo at 700 post turbo today). I got the footage today at lunch in the monsoon rains. I'll get a video up after I have time to put it together.
     
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  13. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    I would imagine the post-turbo sensor is a lot slower to respond and plateau as well, have you observed that with both hooked up?
     
  14. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    So far from what I have seen it will plateau similar to the pre-turbo, but it takes a lot longer to get there. I presently have both hooked up. Video to come...

    Went back to the BFG tire. They don't look as aggressive as the Duratrac's IMO, but I don't get out on the backroads much anymore, so I don't need a tire that's almost a mud tire:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I had to double check that they installed the right size because they look like they are smaller than the Duratracs to me. It must be the different pattern on the sidewall/shoulder. The Duratracs stick out a lot more.
     
  15. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Looking at the tires again on my lunch break the BFG's and the Duratracs sit on the rim quite different. Or maybe they were just mounted different? Seems like the bead is set further in on the BFG's exposing a bit more of the outer edge of the rim.
     
  16. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Photos below for each of the tires at the edge of the rim. BFG first then Duratrac:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Looking at those photos, I guess it's just the difference in tire design rather than how it was mounted. It looks like the Duratrac just has that extra sort of lip that sticks out.

    First impressions after driving into work on the Duratracs and home on the BFG's....The BFG's are definitely quieter. I think I remember noticing the bit of extra noise when I switched from BFG to the Duratracs before. Also, heavy rain back to back days, and it seems to me that the BFG's handle the pooling water on the highway better. The truck wanted to pull/hydroplane a bit more in the Duratracs, but maybe this is just due to the deeper treads on the BFG's since they are new.
     
  17. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    In addition to doing some work on the Aristo yesterday I finally had time to unpack the "new" parts I got for the Land Cruiser.

    ARC Intake:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    And the Fujitsubo system which didn't get totally unpacked, but it's out of the box. It came with all the gaskets, and fastening hardware as well, so that's a plus :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  18. IanB

    IanB New Member

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    So, with that airbox, you'll have to source all new ductwork to mate the airbox to the turbo inlet, correct? OEM airbox exits from the top parallel to the ground, this looks to exit the side/bottom at a 45 degree angled right at the turbo? Maybe the section from the turbo can be clocked so it mates directly to the airbox, and just remove/don't use the upper section where it bends to meet the OEM airbox?

    70mm = 2.75", you'll have 3" exhaust on the truck now, would you not?
     
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  19. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    I was thinking the OEM connection may work since there is the elbow off the lid on the OEM box. However, when I had the MMP turbo installed they put new duct work in there, so I have both options to try and work with the ARC intake connection.

    When I was looking at buying the Fujitsubo system (and everytime I had looked at it) I was a bit concerned about the reduction in pipe diameter on the exhaust. However, prior to purchasing I measured my existing so called "three inch" exhaust:

    [​IMG]

    The Fujitsubo system, may still be 1-2mm smaller, but it's not the 5mm I was thinking it would be when I was first looking into it.
     
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  20. RyanV

    RyanV Member

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    Video is up for pre vs post turbo EGT readings: